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Sorry to hear this. Whilst on the subject, it may be obvious to everyone here, but it's worth making sure you don't keep keys etc where they are accessible by "letterbox fishing". I moved our key hooks after seeing it done on a TV show.

I got excited when I saw the title of this thread. I was thinking of a rather bigger mechanical hammer, and was looking forward to pictures of AndyT having a go at forging. Oh well.

The one on the left looks much nicer to me. Perhaps I've been lookimg at old tools for too long, but that polished, blinged-up look I find ghastly.

I was looking recently at a Goldenberg (so Alsace, nearly Germany) smoother, but reminiscent of that in style, which had a rather nice Lignum sole. But a double iron with no screw to hold them together. It was for sale for £4, but I figured that the time it would take me to learn how to set the...

If they are at 100mm pitch, I know where they are "give or take 50mm" without even having seen the room :lol: If you put the heating of full whack, and took one of those hand held non-contact thermometer things with the laser pointer and scanned across the floor, would there be enough of a...

Not terribly well made either; unless it's my eyes, one of those trays is on the p**s.

Perhaps that's the one that has been filed deeper to make an undersized adjuster work :wink:

Hah - you're struggling here to find a new one. I thought Woodsmiths store might have some Clico left, but they are all gone. It's posssible, but you might not like the price: https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand-to ... 058?query= You should be able to find a useable (with a bit of TLC) old...

Not hugely common, or of much practical use I can think of. I bought one because it seemed like a nice thing to have, particularly coming from a family background of Sheffield steelworkers. I haven't yet found a contemporary use for it - the curves are too shallow for most mouldings you might...

I found just what Chas says; I could easily ruin the temper of M3 HSS, but not reharden it. But to drill rivet holes in the tang, you don't need to reharden it so it may help. Epoxy sounds like a much easier plan though.

I was thinking of wooden legs and rails, but the principle is the same, you want to let the top move a bit. So not necessarily just one screw, but to a metal frame I might use say 4 screws through oversized clearance holes in the frame, with a repair washer, so the top has a little scope to...

If you do use it, a design where the top is not a structural component would be a good idea. So legs and rails for the structure, and the top fixed on in such a way as to allow it to move - buttons, slotted screw holes or such. The 1 year per 1" is normally the rule, but when cut crossgrain...

There are some good prices on NOS auger bits here: https://www.fine-tools.com/auger-bit-co ... shaft.html but only a few useful sizes. The ones without spurs are surely only useful for rough work ? He has a proper auger file too. I have a few, the ones I have are Irwin. I also have old...

That view is a useful one. The width of the shelf is about ten times the width of the plate that is screwed to the wall. Ten times the leverage, meaning that the tension pulling the screws out, and the force pressing the bottom edge of the bracket into the plaster on the wall will be ten times...

I can't think I've seen that many. Then, I don't go to many rustic weddings ! Periodically people ask on here how to make a table / stool top from a crossgrain slice; I can't say I've seen many successful attempts. Diagonal slices for house names/numbers is about the most common thing that...

Aha ! Welcome back Jacob, this place is just not the same without you.

I see noone has commented on this, so ... What are you aiming for - improved life, or keeping the fresh colour of the wood without it turning silvery grey ? I would have thought green oak would last OK with no finish (if it is not sitting in water, or at/near ground level) for quite some time...

When you say slices, do you mean cross grain slices, like thin rounds cut from a log ? If so, you are unlikely to stop it splitting. Water loss is very quick from a short length of wood because of the orientation of the vessels which are meant to transport water along the trunk. The resulting...

I would say yes. Hardpoint saw steel makes perfectly good scratch stocks and cabinet scrapers so it can't be all bad. I'm sure the reason for hardpoint saws was avoiding the needed for the user to sharpen them, not particularly to use cheaper steel. Can't imagine a modern spring steel amounts...

I have heard it claimed that Smith and Roger's Aquacoat SP is good, but have not tried it myself. I'm normally deeply suspicious of any water based varnish (or gloss paint for that matter) as I've had almost universally disappointing results.