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How rigid is the side table ? if you grasp the top and make as if to twist it around, is there much flex? I'd expect the bridle joints to be just fine. What I'd be a lot less confident of is the effect of torsion in the crossed rails. They look quite thin stock. Especially after cutting a...

My father used to keep (and still may !) an old Jiff squeezy lemon container filled with graphite powder for just this purpose.

A travisher is the tool you are looking for.

I thought they were going to be delivering stuff like that by drone :lol:

If you look at the first link, there is a photo of the back of the Woodriver iron, the milled adjustment slots look very similar to the Stanley pictured above to my eye at least. Admittedly, until you get one and offer it up you wouldn't be sure. But it is not too expensive to take a punt ?

The Woodriver #62 iron looks quite similar: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/wood ... jack-plane https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/produ ... plane-iron

The band saw at about 7 minutes in is quite worth hanging on for.

Clico ones still available (and on offer) though maybe not for long: http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/aca ... S-527.html Thomas Flinn also have "Clifton" branded bits, which in the pictures look the same (I think it is the same picture actually), but I don't know who makes them.

Looking back, I see I missed that bit, I'd assumed the central joint was glued rigid.

Yay, who needs noisy power tools anyway. Good job. The black is very striking. I like the thought that because it is a stain, it should still feel like wood. Is the top held on just with screws in oversized holes ?

I think I can see the remains of a scribe line bottom left ? I took it at face value, with hand tools I guess use dividers to scribe the base line for the tails/pins, and with it clamped to something to give you somewhere to place the centre, scribe the same arc on the end grain. Cut the...

My mother has some inherited tools for textile use. The rag rug pegs are of the latch type, and quite heavy. There is another tool, which is double ended with a smaller latch that resembles the sort on mechanical knitting machines. The other end has an eye like #3. This tool was used for...

Do you use E7 with a radio teleswitch to turn on storage heaters or something ? Just thinking the switching might be triggering something spuriously. I have noticed pump overrun timers in gas boilers trigger when I turn the kettle on in the past.

Older than that - it is in Imperial. In 1983 my exam was in metric. But we definitely did have to decide the joints ourselves, perhaps it varied by exam board. I recall clearly discussing my choice of joint with the teacher after the exam; I used a single bare faced M&T where he thought it...

That looks pretty much as I remember from O-level, around 4 joints to cut, but when I did it (Joint Matriculation Board version, erm, 1980-something) the plan did not come with the joints drawn on ! Deciding what joints to use, drawing them on, and usually some other "decorative edge treatment"...

Yes, I do really. I've switched to Titebond 3 these days. But the is the evidence that you can at least sometimes get away with it.

I'll be interested to see what people think about this. In a pinch, I used a builder's PVA from Screwfix, in a yellow gallon can, to glue up a beech shoe rack maybe 6 years ago. Aha, here it is: It is still in my hall, in one piece.

Doubt it. Most likely it is part of the chair and I don't think there is a standard size. You could learn how to weave, but the seagrass alone costs me about £20 (from here) per chair when I make them, plus an evening of weaving. The price to pay to get them repaired might start to look not so...

On which basis, you might think that getting a hand cut joint right from the saw would be next to impossible. I remember the teacher in my "O" level woodwork class explaining that you should aim to get it right first time, not only to impress the examiner but because the finish from the saw...

To me, that second one looks more crude than minimal ?