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Tongue-Tite screws are an option which worked nicely for me on oak t&g (from British Hardwoods).

Before I knew better, I tried to do something very similar to what Mr Sellers appears to be doing with a hinged lid made from beech. When brought in from the workshop the mitres opened and looked awful. I ended up sawing the ends off and replacing with wider, proper, breadboard ends, like so...

Setting aside how you sharpen your drawknife, I'd very much like to see your chairs...

My experience is much the same as Phil's. I'd prefer oil based if it has to resist sticky children's hands.

Yep. That would be right :D

Pear may be stable when it's seasoned, but it moves more than anything else I've encountered as it dries ! pear-bowl-wood-movement-t93972.html I quite like the wild plum we get occasionally at Wimpole for turning bracelets / bangles. But as already mentioned, it is rare to get bits with enough...

I assume because the hardened steel stays attached to the file, but the grit on abrasive paper comes off, then helps to blunt what is left attached ? I've mentioned before that our school woodwork teacher taught that it was a mistake to go back from abrasives to edge tools because of this; any...

I don't believe that temperature. Both to melt potassium nitrate, and to get a blue oxide on steel requires more like 300-350C, so more than an oven. I'd be very careful with molten potassium nitrate. It is a strong oxidiser, and any organic matter, oil, etc will cause a vicious...

I'm not talking about measuring anything, by "draw" I meant "draw a diagram of". This is how to get to the equation to save the bother of remembering it. This reminds me of my annoyance at my son's GCSE maths syllabus. Lots of methods and rules learned and applied laboriously, precious little...

You don't really need to write this down. It is just Pythagoras theorem. Draw your arc, and the sector of the circle it forms part of. Draw a line bisecting the sector, and a straight line connecting the two end points of your arc. You now have a sort of kite shape with a rounded top. The two...

The seat is seagrass, in a simple splayed weave. Because that's all I've learned to do so far ! Some of my friends weave willow, or elm bast seats. One made a chair entirely from a 1m long elm log. The seat was from the bast (inner bark). Appealing idea, but looks messy to work because it...

Chapman was only my guess, there is no maker's mark. The chuck is octagonal. The head attachment has no visible fixings between metal and wood, or any indication of what sort of bearing is within. One perhaps distinguishing feature is that the two metal collars that hold the handle in place...

Though quite why "Firmer chisel with tang" needs to have its own defined standard which, presumably does not prescribe the quality of the chisel I don't know. Well, actually I rather suspect I do, which is to raise 24 euro for "Deutsches Institut fur Normung" from anyone who wants to stick it...

I think on this forum we are rather more familiar with doing the reverse :lol:

I'd say mitres are pretty much disasterous if wood movement is in any way significant, because they are only 45 degrees at one level of moisture content. Gappy mitres look to me rather worse than a slightly out of line breadboard end.

I do like that glue up stage when it all comes together. Usually I enjoy it so much I rush to it and forget some critical step I should have done first (*). On the bench I had thought that the taper of the legs made them look very slender, but in place they look right. How will you retain the...

The finished chair: I did the seat weaving on Thursday evening. It took me just under 4 hours to complete the seat, which is probably not terribly quick as I am no weaver !

I bought this partly out of curiosity, and partly with the thought it might be useful for lighter jobs in confined spaces where a 10" sweep brace would be too cumbersome. There it is, alongside a full sized one for comparison. It has a sweep of just 5". What do I have ? A small brace for...

Remembering that this would be coppiced wood, fairly modest size (6-8" is enough). Easier to cut. If the trees are planted densly enough you will hopefully have quick regrowth, straight grained and more flexible. The initial riving of the billet can be done very quickly. If you see the chaps...

+1 for pictures (or even better a WIP) :D