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Very clever. I can't help thinking that starting with a block twice as thick, a much simpler design would have served :lol:

For smaller tools like moulding planes with no metal parts (take the iron out), a few minutes in the microwave will sort anything alive in there. Take care not to heat the wood too much, the moisture content of anything living will be higher than the wood, so it will absorb more of the energy...

We had an old pallet and a couple of cable drums sitting in the workshop waiting to be taken to the skip. One of the delivery drivers suggested stacking them up, sticking a plate of glass on top and flogging it for a few hundred quid. Maybe worth a try.

I'm unclear why it matters what they are made of if you just want to make something similar ? The text says Natural, Oak and Walnut. The "natural" implies the others at least aren't natural wood. They look a bit like maple, beech and a horrible blotchy mess of a staining job. Quality looks on...

I did say none of us know everything - I didn't know that :oops:. I'm sure I have used PolyX on ply and veneered MDF without disaster, but perhaps I was lucky and the veneer was thick enough, or the glue resiliant enough ?

None of us know everything, so a straightforward answer to the original question... I presume the "lifting off" of the stain is to say the stain near the surface of the wood is dissolving in the water based finish, maybe making the result streaky ? I think a spirit/oil based, rather than water...

I upgraded from the TCP to a Weller WTP90. Very light pencil type, great for SMD work but can do some fairly big stuff being 90W. And it reaches temperature in about 5 seconds. But the heavier THM bits are a plated copper tip, laser welded to a steel (?) tube that slides over the element...

Going back to the original question: https://www.screwsline.co.uk/ They seem to be having a sale ATM - I hope that isn't inauspicious.

I did raise an eyebrow at the cleaving of the log. Sending in with a saw was a strange thing to do, and it did look like he hit one of the wedges. They showed us a shot of an axe several times, but seemingly nobody thought to use it :lol: I don't quite know how you build a chair of that...

It was a bit of an excessive bit of tree, coppiced wood of 6-8" diameter would be easier and a bit more flexible. But not branch wood ! That's for burning. The loading as it grows means it will not have the pith in the middle, so may not cleave straight and will likely move too much as it...

That was my initial thinking, but I have to say the more I look back at the pictures, the more I find myself agreeing with AndyT's sentiments, and being drawn to the simplicity of F over the fussiness of the other designs.

But why do you not find yourself using the whole saw ? Would it be easier with a different grip ? I notice you have two round knobs, whereas most saws have one longer handle, held like a gent's saw with the index finger extended, resting on the side of the frame.

I made mine 300mm, it will accept a hacksaw blade or a homemade one. I don't use bandsaw blade because I don't have a bandsaw, and read some reports that they are a bit "grabby". Instead I hand file my own. Yes, I am a bit of a luddite. I think you cut up bigger bits of wood than me, so maybe...

With a total disregard for any historical context (as I am largely ignorant in the history department), I would put in a vote for G, purely because I see straight lines and stopped chamfers on the chairs, not sweeping curves. Edited to add - I see Custard comments on the weight of the chairs...

His forum name is richarnold, and he was here on the 3rd Jan. He can also be found sometimes on Facebook lurking around with the TATHS lot, I think.

I think you're right. And I am thinking Richard Arnold, but I am not sure

Doesn't make much sense to me - short grain in the tenon = not very strong. You could go for the left option, but instead of the rails meeting at a mitre, use a (hidden) box joint. Won't come apart easily then, but glue-up might get stressful ! What happens where the panel meets the leg...

There are some really smart marking gauges this year. Well impressed.

DW pointed out I got it wrong - most used item is probably the house front door.

My not-quite-a-set of 4 greenwood dining chairs are in everyday use, and are all still standing despite being free from glue, screws or nails. They are alll on here somewhere as WIP. Actually, much of the stuff I've made is still in use I think. My DW uses the stool I made in school woodwork...