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Surprising, but fair enough. Really don't like vinyl fumes myself, not full medical, just a headache. Personally would never put vinyl anywhere near my bed.

Won't the volatile out gassing from the vinyl cause as much or more problems in terms of asthma as volatiles from the glue ?

The originals referenced show clear tool marks, facets and clean cuts - not something you'd get from a mythical 'etching tool'. A rotary tool, like a dremel, will certainly provide a way of carving or engraving, but the nature of the tool will give different character to the marks. Sloyd knife...

If it's only one item needed then a hacksaw and a warding file would get you there quick enough.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/UVTR3.html

Agree with Jacob on the commercial corner brackets. Have a look at the underside of a lot of flat-pack tables and you'll see the same thing. Regardless of the aesthetics, that's a classic piece of table making.. And any treatise on woodworking will show the usual mortice and tenon arrangement...

As an economic position I guess this is a good benchmark to set the value of fixing it:Record No 020c Compass Plane - Free UK Postage | eBay But as an interesting engineering challenge that's a different matter. Then it's time to change gear and get forensic. It's a chunky half-inch thread, not...

If you're going to repaint with oil based paint eventually, then linseed oil is a good way of keeping moisture out of the wood. Boiled oil diluted with turps will soak in and dry.

Maybe time for a bifold door ?

And most concealed cistern units are serviceable from above. Looks like that top mechanism may unlatch

Looks likely...

I've recently used Bostik Flexacryl from Screwfix to overpaint a tired fibreglass covered flat roof. On a smooth surface the coverage is a lot more that the pessimistic figure on the can, but seems good enough coverage for my application given that I was over coating rather than leak repairing.

I've certainly been caught out by solid wood worktops. Oak worktop either side of a narrow kitchen (one side with inset stainless sink). Freestanding stove in the space between at one end. Despite carefully sealing underneath and in openings, Fiddes hardwax on top, and scrupulous care to cleanup...

Gorilla might have a chance, especially with longer fixings

Bandsaw it out of a large slab. Preferably something with a gnarly twisted grain (like Elm?) . Or boat knee style - find a crook that follows the curve.

Pva on damp stuff is a bit of a non starter. Candlewax (not beeswax) is cheap.

Why use putty? - because it's wonderful natural stuff you can make yourself from basic ingredients. Seems more compatible with wood (and with me) too. As an artist working in traditional oil paint, including making paint from raw ingredients, this seems like a natural extension of my...

Addendum to my previous reply. If you're using traditional linseed oil based paint, it's essentially the same stuff as the putty, so the skinning over of the putty is just to give a firm surface to paint on. A light touch and a soft brush, especially on small areas of putty, and the wait time...

Leave it a week for the putty to skin over and paint with oil based paint.

The underlying material could be just about anything. 'levelled with sharp sand etc'? - so a mortar bed? a screed? But if its solid and dry then just retile. Plenty of victorian floors at the back of houses (scullery/kitchen) were quarry tile over packed sand and earth. That then gets replaced...