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If the timbers are basically straight, but with a twist, then you can cut the joins to allow for that, so the twist doesn't transfer to the door.

While agreeing that it's their fault, and ideally they should replace the whole sheet (which is what you bought), realistically that was always going to be a vulnerable point, and if they hadn't done it, something similar was likely to happen soon. Personally I'd try to fix it myself : clamp it...

Second thread on this subject? What makes you think it's mould other than the appearance. Anyway.... Tannins? Tannic acid, naturally present in oak. Can react with iron in the presence of water to produce a black staining. I note you used oak sanding dust in your filler mix. If that dust was...

Wire wool on oak? Risking black staining if any fibres/debris remains in the grain.... Perhaps Scotch-Brite would be safer. But definitely oxalic acid to remove staining.

Is it old or new parquet? What was the subfloor like before filling? It seems a bit quick for mould, wondering if it's some some of glue, mastic or pitch subfloor coating that's tracking through as staining?

No it's not possible. Design around a commonly available glass or plastic container to use a a liner.

Seems to be possible https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/ie/7b7872b1-61d2-ed11-9ac4-00155d9c773c But I suspect that the administrative grief against a small profit margin, plus delivery and warranty issues places it in the 'too much trouble' department.

It's a poor design, but not unusual for fancy-looking door furniture. You could cut tighter to the hinge pin with a bit of easing for the hinge lugs to give a bit more overlap, but it'll never be brilliant.

It'll work fine. But you can probably find a new motor-fan unit for your existing hood...

It's not so much guesswork, it's observation and experience. We're surrounded by furniture, buildings, structures etc all the time. Look at the scale and proportions. Observe how design choices can strengthen a structure. It's all learning.

Tbh, unless it's MRMDF I'd always seal or prime one coat before putting any water based filler in....

It's quite astonishing how much distance these devices can cover... I've had them working over farm premises with multiple distribution boards, submains etc 100m plus from the origin. But, that simple setup procedure should have copied network name and password from the base router (you don't...

I suspect that the market for re-using antique wood is quite small. It takes skill, time, and imagination to appreciate the material. With precious metals all that is needed is a furnace and weighing scales.

Some build procedures were different - skirting and architrave were fixed before final plaster. Otherwise fill materials were generally various blends of dry powder such as chalk, cement, gypsum, wood dust, etc in oil, water, glue, casein, shellac, egg, starch, or mixed emulsion binders. The...

I've got my parents' Wolf cub set with a drill press adaptor, which lays down to form a lathe bed, which can the be fitted with a circular saw table. There's a disk sanding backplate too. The design is a little 'optomistic', seeing as its all based on a small single-(high)speed 1/4 inch capacity...

Thin ply with vertical grain on the outer faces is your best bet. 3mm should be fine, but it varies with wood type and ply quality. Laminate 2 or 3 layers with some shaped gluing blocks or framing behind and it'll work.

Machine powered rotating abrasive with an angle jig. Think it might have been done before in a far less irritating way. Would work on the outer face of an out-cannel gouge (but then, so would any powered or unpowered grinder), but you'd still need a shaped slip to clean up the inner.

There's many ways, but a flap wheel in an angle grinder will soon get that to shape. Even quicker if you can get the basic shape in flat surfaces with a bandsaw first.

Pva as weak as 10% solution, sprayed or misted on a couple of times will stabalise it a lot without making it too plasticky and without soaking it too much.

The slots already there are what's normally used for recirculation mode. Are you fitting non-standard works? Best way I've cut stainless cooker hood chimneys is with a thin cutting disk (for stainless type) in a small angle grinder - but it can grab if you're anything other than delicate and...