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Mrs has a thing for condiments, and the blooming fridge is full of them, could I make some trays so sit on the shelves from oak or walnut or something (I have that available) to make some trays glued up with Titebond3 Was thinking basic tray, with mitred corners, groove for a floating base...

I seen Mike Farrington on YouTube uses the Edgetech and swears by it

if you hinged each door separately, you could attach a 'filler' piece to the edge of one of the door, like a profile moulding - not the best pic but only one I could find quickly.

another vote for OSMO polyx - so easy to apply and also to touchup.

Bought a pair of the £15 brass ones with the rounded end, 6mm in width, and also bought the £5 pair to compare the £5 pair are not worth £5, looks like plastic gold stuck to them, very shiny. the £15 set are nice and will be fine for me, expensive for what they are, but all these hinge types...

Were they solid birch ply doors or rail and style doors?

thanks all for the replies, I think the general consensus saw wise is to get something similar to what I have now - short(ish) and with no set and perhaps look after it a bit better this time :)

Nice. Mortised joints for the door rails and styles with a dowel added?

The problem I have is I’m sort of trying to hide a few sins while I’m doing it my table saw blade isn’t flat toothed, so my splines grooves have a little v in them, I lightly hammer the spline material in to bed it in best I can, but at the the moment I’m cutting them while stuck but glue still...

ive been using an old Japanese saw… https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07VYHVWXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it cuts ok, but I have neglected it, been cutting splines and dowels while glue still a bit wet, so it’s got a bit gunked up and going rusty im finding I’m...

ah they are only 2ft long...

what's a reasonable price? eBay has some listed for 12 Sapele slats ready to go for £55...

I think the legs go well with material that's on the side of the island. Floor for me I would have used a resin or similar as mentioned above to make it serviceable - of course, it may only be the odd cuppa tea that gets made in there.... Great workmanship though - do you do the design...

these guys deliver... https://www.woodwiseuk.co.uk/product-category/waney-edge-character-boards-logs/american-walnut/american-walnut-1-short-lumber-american-walnut/ nothing quite 300 wide though

If you made a 'stop' you could cut the strips so they are on the other side of the blade is one way to do it. https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/cutting-thin-strips-at-the-table-saw/

Ive bought from Sherwin timber in the past, based in Eccleshall just outside Stafford. They do have an eBay shop so you can see what they have, and do allow collection. (Or did pre COVID) ive had par walnut from them in the past and it was reasonably priced.

looks really nice - like the splines of different sizes - how did you hinge the lid?

Thanks :), just butt joints im afraid. I drew it in sketchup first to make sure it would work, and its put together like this... Glued edging on the 2 side panels (made these wider than needed so I could trim the assembly to size on the tablesaw) Glued edging on the lid/ base panels in 2 stages...

thank you :) you'd think I know what im talking about here, but I carefully followed a post by custard on the forums, and the recommendation is to use pig suede for lining boxes - then on the search for pig suede, there are lots of others - some thicker, some thinner so needed to make sure I got...

I thought 785+ was a sanitary silicon? for pvc, I always use a low modulus neutral cure silicone sealant. Something like soudal silirub, it’s only about £3 a tube from eurocell if you have one of those nearby?