Search results

Scrit, thanks for digging that out. Not sure if correct but i think it needs to be a 'hook' type deadlock for bi-fold doors.

Do you have any links or is that a typo as google is giving nill results

Has anyone had experince fitting these? I'm looking on a site that offers 100's of them, different locking types to suit my requirements but not sure if these are 100% suitable for timber doors. I can't see the problem but wouldn't mind knowing if they are going to be. Example...

Scrit. We are at the early stages of setting up so not sure if we jump straight in with a larger machine or purchase a smaller one and upgrade later. The budget is not fixed but we have alot more machinery to purchase as well, so don't want to use it all on one item. An 8 foot rip would be...

Doing a bit of research and looking into a panel saw (sheet material) for around £5K. Have been looking at the Felder range but seems a few models are around this price tag. Can anyone pass over any advice on these models or an other alternatives. Thanks

The iroko one i pulled out from the side of my finger last night would have. Hand was shaking like no tomorrow trying to get is out. Dangerous things splinters are, should be removed straight away.

Hafele ref : 930.10.000 - brass bottom roller Something like that will work. You will have to set-out the doors to allow for the distance from the hinge pivot to the centre of your bottom track. The movement will not be as smooth as a top/bottom guided door.

Why can't you run the track on the bottom and have the pin in the bottom edge of the door, not the top? The track/pin only allows the door to open in the correct manner, it's not taking any of the door weight. What is the total width/height of opening and what thickness doors do you plan on using?

Just so happens that one of our reps has a 2005 A4 TDi s-line that he would like to change for a smaller car. May have the option to buy this from the lease company, so fingers crossed.

i've found a few, but not sure on engine size. Locally is the 1.9 TDi ES but we are looking at another but it's the 2.5 TDi V6 engine. Is the latter going to cost me loads to run or are these engines pretty good.

Nice and simple :wink: I've a few to look at this weekend, all around the same sort of money but some higher spec/high mileage - low spec/lower milage. It's swings and roundabouts on this one.

Thanks for the input. The wife is now not sure if we should opt for the "new" car and is starting to look around for second hand. We now have options on a 55 volvo v50, 2005 audi sports with high mileage and even a bmw 320d. Is a 3 year old car with 79,000 miles on the clock a big no-no these...

I think both a fairly high on services costs. :cry:

Got dismissed straight away. It is a nice drive but hasn't got that "look" we are after.

We are looking at changing our current car to a new estate. The pickings have been reduced down to: Volvo V50 2.0D ES Lux pack Audi A4 Avant 2.0tdi SLine Does any members have either of these that they could cast any opinions Thanks

Andy. The sliding carriage is useful if cutting alot of large panels but you're not going to fit the table and sliding carriage in the space you have (it will fit but you have no workstop space left). I would hold on, save the cash and think about what you need the saw for and how you can work...

to be honest, having the axminster, i wouldn't bother in your space. You can't use the sliding carriage to it full advantage anyway (sold mine off, so did Tony). You are better suited to get the festool MFT, or make your own and set the router into this too. Better use of space. No point filling...

I'm looking for a narrow mortice latch for some external doors. The jamb section is 70mm with a 14mm rebate so i only have 56mm to play with. A Mortice cylinder night latch would be great but i can't seem to find anything that narrow. Mostly all 88mm with 60mm backset. I have tried hafele...

Well, i used Euro hinges and a touch latch on our loft hatch and it works great. Built an MDF surround that got plastered flush to the ceiling and have the door fitting flush. You hardly notice the hatch now, with is what i was after. I got the touch latch from B&Q. Good thing about the euro...

I agree, i can never trust just butting two guide rail together for a true straight edge. I always butt a longer straight edge behind the rails to make sure, beats the point of using the rails really.