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mailee, looks good. Do you have the product description as I can't seem to find it on the wickes website. Thanks

Steve, to add. My 5mm was not letting the stripping into the frame. I only grooved for the tongue.

I would add a bit more to be honest. The last set of doors i built, I allowed 5mm as fitting on a multilock and I think it'll be hard pushed to get it to close up that distance on a 3mm gap. http://www.schlegel.com/Build_ProductDetail.asp?productID=170 Image states 50%, so around 4.5mm. Also...

If drawing it up, try putting the AQ21 Aquaseal around the perimeter of the rebate as discussed but adding a AQ63 to the top as you stated

I can see your thinking about the weather stripping but in all windows I've seen/made, it's been in the edge of the rebate as stated earlier. If you move the top strip out of line from the other edges you may be creating a small gap which may allow a slight draft. You also have you sealed unit...

I would also allow for a dry glazing system incorporating the easyclip glazing system. Makes it that little bit harder for the buggers to break in. http://www.reddiseals.com/acatalog/dry_glazing.html

It's been a while since I built any windows but a view things I've noticed. 1) Top weatherstripping should be in edge of rebate as bottom strip. 2) I would bring the casement out from the frame face by 10/12mm, then rebate casement to allow it to sit within the frame rebate, not over it...

Due to moving into a larger unit and purchasing new kit, my Axminster AW10SB2 cast iron table saw is for sale along with the Osborne EB3 mitre gauge, and the axminster machine base. All less than a year old. The saw is without the Sliding carriage and the rear extension as these didn't get used...

your number is say 23, that comes to 18. 24 = 18 25 = 18 26 = 18 27 = 18 31 = 27 32 = 27 33 = 27 and so on If you look at the image for 18, 27 , 36, 45 etc, they are all the same.

Hope this helps. After seeing the doors in place this week, I wish i did them at the start of the summer :roll:

How do you know these are made from cheap materials? Just because it hasn't been made from solid hardwood, does this make it crap from the offset then? There are more materials being used in the furniture industry other than hardwood. "Lacking craftsmanship" :roll: , does someone have to don...

Do you have these lines saved somewhere? As you add this sort of comment to every piece of furniture that isn't using old, traditional construction methods. The furniture in Ikea is designed and manufactured for todays short term requirements. I don't want to pay for some over engineered...

Your right, these do fold out. I'm not sure if this set-up will work with them opening inwards. I can try and dig out some more info if you like?

Sorry, no WIP pics. I always forget to take them. Simple M&T construction, finished with a coat of Danish oil.

The over-all width is 2100, and the timber sections 94x54mm

:lol: :lol: I had to remove that section of decking to allow the frame to slot ( I wish) into the opening.

Do you mean the Fatsia polycarpa to the right of the doors? or the mass planting behind?

the hardware is Henderson Weather fold. The kitchen is nearly finished, all made in the garage again, only sprayed/veneered the doors at work. I'll try and dig out some better shots of it.

Haven't posted any work to date so thought about time. When we started the kitchen, one thing I did say that has to be done, was to replace the UPVC doors for some hardwood bi-fold jobbies. Sorry no WIP pics but all completed in the single garage, apart from the general sizing of the timber...

You adjust them so they sit under the boot to stop the gaiter rising up. Once fitted correctly, cut some of the excess strapping off.