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The riving knife on my saw is fixed the the blade rise-and-fall, so that it is very close to the blade regardless of how much blade is above the table. I always thought that was the idea - to have the splitter fairly close to the back of the blade.

Reinforced concrete 8 inches thick, laminated with SRBP on both sides.

RadioSpares(showing my age here!) certainly did have the mother of all catalogues. We used to use it as a technical reference book where I worked. If you were building/designing something electronic, you'd browse the RS catalogue looking for the right integrated circuit. They also sold/provided...

Thanks to all for advice. I see that Ian John at TuffSaws is away at the moment, but I will order a blade or two later. The saw runs and tracks fine. It came with the mitre guide, rip fence(with micro-adjuster) and a depth stop(very rusty). Also a circle cutting jig! The rail for the rip fence...

@Jim: I just found the thread detailing the purchase and restoration of your Inca table saw. Good job! Would I be right in thinking that new bandsaws have electronic braking?

BTW, there's another one ending very soon - French one rather than original Swiss though... I've only had this one 22 hours, and already I'm becoming a snob!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250646118893&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I just got hold of an Inca 342.186(Euro 260) bandsaw from eBay, for the princely sum of £50.00. It's generally in pretty good condition, the tyres seem fine, but I need to get some new blades, as the one it came with is rusty and bent, but, having never owned a bandsaw before, I could use some...

RR wrote: Ah! That's probably why I don't understand - I drive an automatic. But how does this ratchet help with gripping the smooth bars or tightening the vise.

Which is exactly what I tried to write! I still don't understand where RR's ratchet comes in though...

RR wrote: Sorry, you've lost me there, could you elaborate, please?

Maybe something like a Woodruff key, but with the semi-circular part in the gear wheel? The thing that bothers me about a keyway is that, depending on haw far along the bars it extended, the sharp edge could damage the held work. Incidentally, this sort of vise would be useless for compressing...

The plate and the spring are what locks onto the bar, as with a Irwin style speed clamp/cramp. The transfer rack is non parallel, and forces the locking plate to tilt, and thus lock onto the bar. If there is a keyway, then I believe I understand it completely. If there isn't a keyway then I am...

You might have to find a very old car gearbox! I think most gears these days are helical.

Hmmm... I think the transfer bar has a wedge profile at one side, which skews the big, spring loaded washer to a locking angle, then, further rotation drives the bar backwards. Very clever, and the sole reason for using the transfer bar rather than the traditional chain. Hold on, that doesn't...

Looks to me as though it does both - locks to the bars and then winds in. Heaven knows how... Notice how he always pulld it open from the bottom?

I have an Elektra Beckum KGT500, and it stays in table saw mode 95% of the time. I have a cross cut sled I made, and it works OK for me. Having said that, if I had the room I'd rather have a table saw and a SCMS, but I am extremely pressed for space. Just re-read your original post and saw the...

I already have one thanks, I bought it from Rutlands a few years ago.

Hitachi M12V Oh wait! I haven't axtually ordered one!

Also not wishing to dampen anything, but isn't one of the reasons that people have their own P/Ts because pre-dimensioned timber only works if the humidity doesn't change?