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Thanks guys, well without going into the subject of exponential horn flares all I can offer is the the curve has to be constructed with this exact amount of staves and be as close to the drawings as I can possibly make them. What I am after is the best method of accurately cutting these bevels...

Yes, annoyingly it does need to be seamless hence the need for nice tight joins, certainly a jig will be made once I have forged an idea of the best approach, I like the idea of an adjustable shooting board so any thought on implementation would be gratefully received or indeed suggestions why...

The cross section.

Ok I see. sorry Mike, I hope these drawings shed some light on it, one is a cross section and the other a 3d wireframe.

Sorry Mike, not understanding this, surely any curve would require accurate bevels for it to adopt it desired form. Do you mean that you could essentially be off with the first bevel and adjust for the following?

It's a great idea but as the curve tightens I have worked out I will need up to 6-7 degree bevels hence the shooting board idea. So essentially need to be beveling between 1 and 6 degrees. Thanks for the input so far, much appreciated.

Maybe this? (sediments removed).

Yes I see what you mean, am new to shooting boards so sorry for the glaring error. Any ideas on proper implementation? I received this advice but struggling to picture it, I would be looking more at a shooting board where you can change the angle the board is held at. Think of a door held to...

I am thinking of experimenting with a long shooting board, the picture gives a general idea, any thoughts on this approach?

Well that's kind of you but you might live to regret that offer, I'm in Brighton...pm on the way.

Ok so if I am aiming for 1" thick walls on the curve so what would you say would be optimal for having the timber supplier dimension them to once factoring in flattening? I will try and upload a drawing of my curve so you can see what I am trying to do as this will also have a bearing on the...

Thanks rbland, I have just ordered one to try out, the poplar planks will come in planed on all sides so hopefully the faces will be pretty square for starters.

Thankyou all very much especially Custard, cheers! 1-2degrees is such a small amount that I was wondering if the rail saw might manage that without to many accuracy issues, it's just a whisker, make one initial pass leaving 1mm and then do the rest with a 2nd pass and clean up with the plane...

Thanks Mike, really appreciate your reply. Yes, the final components are large. I understand what you describe, I think there will be some experimentation on some sacrificial pieces before I get the knack, I have had experience with a jointer plane but nothing like this sort of work so not a...

precisely that.

sorry, yes, 63mm wide (long day), the curve is part of a loudspeaker design, there are 8 slats in each curve.

It's just the angle that come from my cad drawings, maybe in reality 1 degree would be fine.

Hi, am hoping I can draw on some experience here, I want to create a gradual curve with 1" thick poplar, each slat will be around 630mm wide and 1m in length. I am wondering what you might think would be the best method of creating the bevels. The bevels would only be about 1.2 degrees so not...

very nice, what did you finish it with? I have found that the water based polyvine finishes darken the least on end grain birch. Ok so a block plane, don't forget the size of this thing, it's 1.6m across, is there a bigger plane that may have the robustness to deal with all the uneven ragged...

...wondering whether a plane of some description might better get the rough stock away before spokeshave?