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Yeah, totally safe 😂. Passing a piece of wood over a saw blade where the kerf can pinch and end up throwing it back at you. As others have mentioned, even with a fair wind it can be a lottery. I have found myself in the situation of needing a piece of wood and deep cutting on a saw (thankfully...

I agree people might do it Jacob. But what you're proposing would require the removal of the crown guard, on some machines the riving knife too. Approaches like this are one of the reasons people get hurt. Practices like you propose have led to serious injury and prosecutions. Thankfully...

Though so. Tecqniues as described aren't a safe way to work. Avoid them.

TS = Tablesaw?

In my opinion general handsaws like 4.5 tpi are okay up to material 3" thick. Anything thicker and there's not the full range of motion. If you want hand tools only it's going to be frame saw. If you want Blackburn you'll be on a long waiting list. A pragmatic approach would be to get a local...

Brave man using a Getty image Jacob! They can be pretty aggressive about their content being used!

Sorry Phil 😂, yes, I am the only truth and all shall obey 😂 Came with a lid Jacob 👌

My "fine" stone. Original box in mahogany with end grain blocks. Likely a washita but can't be sure. Late 19th early 20th century? £25 from eBay. Certainly saved making a box! I use baby oil on the stones, as others have pointed out there are many options.

I like oilstones too. Nice in a cold workshop and it helps keep rust from tools. Boxes are a very good idea. If they fall they don't bounce. I've bought secondhand stones that have the endgrain blocks and I'm confident the stone was owned by a professional or serious amateur. When I've made my...

* grind the bevel, primary, eliminating convexity and at an angle shallower than you will hone. do it neatly and avoid doing ugly work * on the first hone, use a fine stone and teach yourself an angle that works well, fix it in your mind by feel and sight - it takes very little time and you...

Wow, personal preference aside I'm surprised they broke! Did you get a refund? I'm fine with the Richter above 1/4" size but just don't like the 1/4". I like the handles on the 8116 fine, it just comes down to preference. The lands on the 8116 are finer than a nice old Marples 1/4" I use...

Modern Marples splitproof are overpriced and trading on what they used to be. I picked up an old one for £1.50 at a boot sale. Lovely slim lands and a plenty of life left in it. If you have the money, AI are nicely made and far better than modern Stanley Sweethearts. Narex Richter's are good...

You have a superb taste in films David.

Some of what has been mentioned by Vaj is in this video. For me personally I view the steps in the video as a waste of time. I did something similar once, you might even find it here on the forum. Once you get into planes a bit you learn what areas are important and what are faffing about.

The edge jointing of a board is an excellent test of a plane. It really highlights an issue with the sole, if indeed there is one at all.

Hi Tony That's my hope. My metal vice wasn't all that good anyway and as you highlight, wood has a much better chance of soaking up the vibes. I haven't used it yet! Busy at home some shop hasn't been the priority.

Interesting, it certainly cryo treated any hype. I'll keep using the stock irons.

Thanks everyone, generous feedback for a simple piece of shop equipment 😊. When time is tight these projects can be a shot in the arm.

Good point Rog. The wing nut does a good job with the initial grab to get the saw in the right spot. When I put the vice into the bench vice I can apply more/as much pressure as required. However, a lever would be a nice touch. The hardware for this was just what was at the local agricultural...

Thanks John. The two main benefits should be not having to move the saw in the vice and better support for the saw plate. We'll have to see if I've achieved it (first one is already in the bag).