Search results

Don't forget about a screw chuck either, I use one that can be held by the chuck jaws.

As long as you take light cuts, and use the tailstock where possible a 13" blank will be ok on a 3" faceplate, its more about how long the screws are to get a good grip. However for a making a platter, a faceplate with screws is not ideal as they will probably ruin the centre of the piece. If...

In terms of history, I noticed the end of the spindle, some rough saw marks are still visible, not completely faced off. Also the big cast pulleys have some very small casting voids in them, as does the tailstock. The bed surface is slightly rounded at the back, so not a totally flat surface...

I am now selling the lathe separate from the Wadkin stand. Make me an offer if you already have accessories and just want the lathe on its own. For the lathe with just the straight tool rests only I would accept £750.

It looks like all the welding options are either faffy or pricey. I will see what scrap metal I have and make something out of that. Then filler to tidy it up. The centre to centre alignment is not great, however I do not see how I can adjust it, as the headstock and bed are cast as a single...

Yes it would be a bit of a mission to preheat it, that part of the headstock is cast integral with the bed. I was debating a piece of angle iron across the top, and filler underneath. I suspect any welding quote would be quite expensive really. I have heard that laser welding is a thing now, I...

Amazing process. Sadly he could have had the surgery years ago, but could not afford it. The video did not explain where the resources appeared from?

there is a for sale section on this forum, but ebay should have a wide choice.

Look out for a secondhand chuck which is 3/4" 16tpi, plenty cheaper than a brand new SK80. And yes, normally the chuck would come with multiple types of jaws, to fit different shapes. They are normally shaped as a circle, to clamp into a drilled hole, or onto the outside diameter of a workpiece...

If you want to get the wood running centrally, its just trial and error, moving each jaw in and out a bit at a time until its close to running true I am afraid.

This lathe is one of the cheapest ones available, great for trying it out but if you want to get into woodturning properly you should consider upgrading. You want a scroll chuck which is self centering as mentioned above, turning the key moves all the jaws in or out at the same time. See this...

Sorry for radio silence on the rebuild, I have used the lathe briefly a few times, the flat belt slips a bit, especially on the highest speed, and the inside of the belt has got very dirty so I think I need to clean and polish up the pulleys a bit. The bit of car filler I put in the gap has...

Sadly I believe with events like this people write a computer program that can quickly run through the buttons and enter the card details within a few seconds, beating most humans to it. They then resell the tickets somewhere else. Its a common problem at the moment. I believe the solution...

Check whether you have a damp proof membrane low down just above the ground. It will be a black plastic layer between the bricks. Any soil/debris leaning on the bricks above the DPM will let moisture travel in. Dig soil away from the walls if needed. Also as you have suggested the guttering...

I am pretty sure the threads are imperial, one of them is a piece of threaded rod so I can get a piece of thread to match whatever the handle has.

ah yes, whem I signed up I had just bought a Myford ML2 on ebay, I now have a converted metal spinning lathe with 12.5" centre height.

I am after 2 of them, one around 3" long and one around 4", for tailstock clamp to the bed, and tailstock barrel clamp. I was planning to buy new ones with a small metric thread and then tap them to the required sizes. I have not checked what thread the bolts are yet. Thanks Phil for looking.

Wanted, around Stevenage area, any large pieces of wood, eg a rootball from a felled tree, for woodturning, up to 2 or 3 feet diameter. Almost anything I can fit into a hatchback considered!

I am looking for one of these: Clamping Hand Lever - 303 Stainless Steel (WDS 8925), Ball Handles But they only sell stainless or steel which has been chemically blacked. Any cheaper ones out there from a mild steel that are silver coloured? perhaps chrome plated?

I have been using Carnuba wax and so far I have not seen any new surface rust. Incidentally since my last post I looked on the other side of the wall which is in a neighbours garden and the guttering was full of soil, and water was running down the wall. There was also soil buildup above the...