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Also some extra info, looks like the company made it into the 1980s: Hazlewood & Dent Ironmongery & Tools

I made a new discovery regarding the origin of this lathe - it appears to be "Hazlewood and Dent Ltd" established 1885 in Birmingham. The advertisment does not show my specific machine, but one very similar for much larger work. This is from a scan of "Benns Encyclopaedia of Hardware" 1954 so...

It turned out to be a pin going through the shaft had sheared off on both sides and allowed rotation where it should not. It was a simple design in the end. Yes the bench mounted countershaft does take alot of space compared to the later underdrive models, but I got it for a good price and do...

Hello everyone I recently purchased a do upper Boxford CSB lathe. It uses a bench mounted countershaft and motor combined unit, bolted separate from the lathe at a suitable location. I believe this is not the normal unit supplied with the CSB lathe, it appears to be the more generic drive unit...

Yes it can be scary if you don't have a soft start. Inverters are coming down in price now, that would allow you to have a wider range of speeds but only really suitable for 3 phase motors. If the lathe is more secure it will be safer.

If you want to turn larger diameter/off centre pieces then getting the lathe solidly mounted can make a huge difference. stack up the frame with bags of sands/gravel whatever, or bolt to the wall/floor, whatever is easiest.

for a rotating centre, the torque through the taper is not important so an mt1 - mt2 adapter and this would work fine.

one solution would be to carpet the stairs?

I have done a large end grain apple bowl before, it is hard work with end grain, you need a big bowl gouge and sharpen it more often. if you have any forstner bits or large drill bits you can start clearing the centre out with these. Also yes some curved tool rests to minimize overhand are...

I would say its an ideal first lathe, do not worry about the specifications too much until you have got a bit more familiar with wood turning. Yes an MT1 taper can be a bit small but for larger diameter work you can use a chuck which attaches using the headstock thread and not the taper.

I wonder if the bearings are being pulled out of alignment along the shaft, such that they have no end play and the sideways force on each bearing is excessive. That would be my first guess.

Make sure you are using a high enough speed and regularly sharpening your tools. To get rid of final imperfections you could use sandpaper on a flat block of wood.

I have created 8" bowls on a lathe that had a motor rated INPUT 1/2HP, and I think the output was around 1/4HP. It was a slow process! If you are a hobbyist and not in a hurry, then 3/4HP I would say is enough, but 1HP or more would be ideal. Above 1.5HP is pretty savage if you have a catch.

Have you tried the Chesnut brand sanding sealer spray? I tend to spray it at the end of a session on the endgrain bits and leave it overnight to really soak in and dry. Then very light cuts with a freshly sharpened scraper, make sure your toolpost is very solid. Any slight vibration or movement...

Yes Sorby and Axminster do a threaded toolpost and then several screw on rests, but I think they might be a bit thin for larger lathes. The Woodtek one looks like it is cast iron and quite sturdy.

Hi there. I have an older lathe with a slightly unusual 1 1/4" toolpost size. I want to expand the toolrests I have. I have ordered some tubing to sleeve 1" and 1 1/8" toolrests, however I notice that brand new Woodtek lathes appear to have 1 1/4" toolpost size. I can see on ebay several sellers...

There are some good new ones, but the modern market for quality lathes is pretty small, whereas back when the Union Graduates were being made they would be used in production environments as well so had to be built to a good quality, and as you can see with the Wadkin RS were often over...

The long bed can be removed and a short bed fitted to the same headstock. However the shortbed is in more demand due to its compact size. Personally I found the long bed pretty good, and the tailstock is a bit more solid than the shortbed one. Why not get the long bed and see what you make of it?

£1000 for a Union Graduate is not too bad, as long as it is in good condition, and comes with a fair amount of accesories. The Wadkin RS can be had fror a similar price, and is clearly a more robust lathe, but is much harder to transport and move around and much larger footprint. I managed to...

Oneway seem to sell some similar quality tool rests, some of them are from stainless steel, and alot cheaper.