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I think it is structural to an extent but not supporting a massive amount of weight, as much of that will be taken by the top two M&T joints on the back vertical piece and just the strength of that whole box section..? This is what I’ve been told elsewhere anyway. The one below I’ve just seen...

I think the curve is more decorative, someone else has said this elsewhere. I think particularly if I add that diagonal brace in the roof section it should be okay. I’m still not sure how the corner piece could be done as a pegged lap. I’ve been googling it and they seem to only be orientated...

Hmmm…how would the corner joint work using lap joints if I need to connect 4 pieces, including the curved piece? I am slightly concerned about the curved pieces weak points but encouraged by the fact the original was done in the same way. The timber has been purchased now so I’m sort of...

Cheers - this was my thinking too, I’m going to keep the main elements as they were as it seems fairly well made but didn’t want to just start hammering nails in! My main concern is that bottom corner joint now, whether 3 tenons is too much or what the best approach is. 60mm square is hard to...

Thanks - that’s a good technique to know about. i have one of the curves from the old brackets so was going to just trace those and cut out of the 8” wide boards (photo in previous post). Someone else mentioned about laminating two boards with grains in different directions to give more strength...

Thanks - I did think about chopping the bottom of the curve in as you describe. The top two I was going to draw bore rather than wedge. I don’t think I have boards at width that will allow me to make the curved sections any longer, so it’s that bottom corner pieces that will cause most concern...

No complete old one unfortunately. I have the remnants of the neighbours rotted one that came down, and as I say they originally seem to have just nailed the curve on. I guess if it lasted that long it should be fine? Was unsure about just nailing that part in place though.

Do you mean use mechanical fixings where possible rather than traditional joints? I’d assumed that mortise and tenons etc would be better. The curves will be cut from one board (this is also how the original was done). I’ve tried to choose boards that have some sloping grain in the hope of...

Hi all, I’ve decided to take on a project to rebuild the porch canopy on the house and would like to build it so it matches the other original ones on our street. I’ve attached a photo of the originals. I’m going to build it in sapele and have made a start planing and thicknessing to 60mm...

Thanks for the info and photos - I did suspect the one I have is underpowered. Guess an upgrade might be in order at some point…never ending expense this hobby! The weird thing about thicknessing is that the majority of the shavings seem to be ending up at the infeed part of the machine, they...

Just wondering whether anyone has any photos they can share of an original dust extraction hood for the pt255? I’m not 100 sure how the homemade one it came with should be mounted when in use - it seems to have been split with some ply into two chutes - see photos. The chipping extraction isn’t...

That’s really kind of you, thanks for that. I’d definitely take you up on that offer when you’re up and running! Good to know I can just go ahead and start using the machine and getting a feel for it without starting any major overhaul. The guy I bought it from was using it with a standard...

Just received a quote for new sprockets from ‘R J Woodworking Machinery’ …£277.25! Still waiting to hear back from Sedgwick, I’d thought maybe a different supplier might be cheaper than them. Yikes - really can’t afford an additional £300 right now. Is there any harm is using the machine...

I was looking at the thread last night and watched the machining of the sprocket. I don’t have the machinery for that and don’t know anyone who would…I guess maybe a local engineering company might give me a quote for something like that… If it’s the case I’ll need to get them from Sedgwick I’m...

thanks for the advice - if the sprockets aren't standard sizes does that mean ordering direct from sedgwick? Are they expensive parts? do you have any recommendations of suppliers of parts like sprockets and chains?

Successfully collected! I need to sort out some kind of castor base to move it around the workshop though, needs to be my next priority. I have a few questions that someone might help me with: should the thicknesser feed control lever always be in the disengaged position when using in planer...

Going to collect this today with a van. What’s the advice on the best way to secure this for transit? Lay it down flat or keep it upright and strapped to the side? I have plenty of ratchet straps and two big timbers to use for lifting via thicknesser section.

I’m assuming the fence just pulls forward and the part that you don’t want rebated hangs over the front of the machine supported by those shaw guards, where there is some gap between the blade and the blade guard mount? It will only rebate up to 13mm apparently… Will be interesting to see how...

Ah great - this is a nice feature. The only method I have a rebating currently is an old Stanley 78, so this will be a welcome addition!

What are these clamps/guides called? I haven’t seen them much on YouTube videos of planer thicknessers, but the one I’m buying comes with them. assume they are just to keep stock right to the fence and bed as you feed it through?