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+1 to that. +1 for Freud, whose other advantage is that they have thinner blades which cut faster and waste less kerf. OK you can do the odd cut when the 'wrong' blade is fitted, and I leave a combo blade on for routine and less important stuff, but have a 24 (I think) tooth rip and 80 tooth...

Just read about ACF50 and it seems very good. Does it stain wood, if you use it on e.g. a table saw top and use it soon after? I usually use wax and try to keep using the tools, but that's taken a knock with this winter's viruses and cold weather.

Yes please. PM on way

Ballistol is brilliant stuff. Terrific penetrating agent too. Designed for the German Army in the early 1900s to protect steel, wood and leather!

Are you quite sure it does not separate somehow? That's an odd design. Could we see a picture or a web reference? The trouble is, that even a 4" faceplate would be rather unstable on a 10 mm conventional chuck.

These are looking fine. Couple of points which may help: (1) On spindle turning (ie when the grain runs along the axis of the lathe) the right direction (with the grain) is always down the slope. (2) Don't be afraid to leave an extra bit of waste wood beyond the end of the peg you are working...

Of course I realise that they all do it and why. I am complaining about yet another dumbing down, and not giving people a chance to learn, or at least learn to appreciate real skill. How on earth can anyone, technically-minded or not, prefer the view of someone's nose whiskers to seeing what...

Very interesting and useful thread, Steve. I particularly like the mitre glue-up pennants.

I'm enjoying the series, as repair and restoration is something I do quite a bit of. I do agree with the production criticisms above, though. As has been remarked on here, I think by Chris T, restoration is often about solving problems, and it would be even more interesting if they could focus...

Not much to add to Sawdust's web research. You definitely do not want alpha brass (single phase), which is for rolling and drawing and doesn't cut freely. Alpha/beta brass (two phase, with the beta phase more brittle) is designed for machining as the chips break off. And preferably a bit of lead...

I was puzzled by this thread, thinking what's the issue? Then I realised that that was why I kept my ancient Arcoy Dovetailer. 50th anniversary this year, wedding present from my mates. The long board goes horizontally and you cut downwards.

Ah! yes that rings a bell! Thanks for letting us know.

Enjoy! It's a great plane.

They are usually very helpful on the phone.

PS how is the chuck? The main problem on mine is actually the alignment of the chuck on its shaft. I've managed to straighten the slightly bent shaft, but then decided to overhaul the lathe before tackling the chuck. Which got delayed by illness so it's all in a bit of a limbo!

Well, we are all ready to help, but the condition is you have to provide pics! Especially of the lock nut and the locations of the missing nuts. Most of the threads are Whitworth. Find and keep all those ball bearings, yes they do drop out on disassembly. If you have lost any, they are easy and...

It could be true if the clamps are designed so that there is some elastic give in them, which will maintain at least some force when the timber shrinks. Otherwise I think your BS detector is working fine. There's probably enough give in virtually any clamps. In deed it might be an excuse for...

The hermetically sealed box would work. But thick rust isn't quite the secret of Corten steel. Normal rust is "incoherent" with the base metal. It expands a lot when it forms, hence doesn't stay "coherent" with the base and flakes off. Old iron in a wet atmosphere will rust right through in...

Drool! What a beauty!

Nah, that would take all the fun outa woodwork!