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Do you have a lathe? A parting tool in a collet chuck is the best way. Use the tailstock to set a stop for the rod, pull the rod through till it touches the tailstock centre, use a parting tool in a fixed position. But I think Lorenzi's suggestion of using a push fit cap onto a socket screw is...

You might check a nearby university department that does Xray work (engineering, physics, materials or chemistry departments). The person to ask for is the Radiation Protection Officer. They will quite likely do you a favour and do a quick check if you can bring the lenses in. And their...

Hi all, You probably didn't notice but I've been off the forum for a few months, mainly because I was finishing a geriatric PhD thesis in musicology. As one does. But that is done now (but not dusted as I'm waiting for the viva) and turning my thoughts to some house refurbishment. Given my age...

Looks good!

Looking forward to it. Looks like you have most of the accessories too!

Looking good. Two belts are probably OK, just try it and see if it works reliably. There's less power loss with two. Do you have the fence rails and the fence?

Yes they do turn up on eBay, just have to be patient.

sorry the Imgur address didn't come through:

PS it is worth trying to find a saw with as many of the accessories as possible. These are described in the manual (attached). There is also an excellent guide to what you can do with the saw at

The fence position is so that the work rests on the fence and doesn't risk dropping into the blade. But the tilt only goes one way to this may not suit all pieces. However, your sort of work pieces do not look too heavy and you would find the slotting/jointing capabilities useful if you have the...

It looks like that but why the keyway?

Yes I have both the bandsaw and the universal saw. Both work with tilting tables, and if you put the fence downhill of the blade it is quite satisfactory. The tilt does work, though I must say the trunnions and clamp are not the best design feature of what are otherwise extremely well designed...

Sounds good. You can probably find a bit about pattern design online; you'll only need a basic guide. Decide where your split will be - find out from the foundry if they are casting the leg vertically or horizontally. You'll need a taper of at least 2 degrees to get the pattern out of the sand...

I agree that the foundation posts are a problem waiting to happen. I have a nice shed that has had a foundation problem (not the same one) and it is awful to correct later,

That's correct. Black anodising is generally successful, but other colours may come out funny on cast aluminium alloy (as opposed to extruded, which generally anodises well). I once thought I'd get a newly-designed instrument gold anodised to show off. It came out a dull khaki! Cast bronze...

The direct drive 415V was about £440 a few years ago. Best to give them an email or call. Drives Direct Inverters LTD | eBay Shops

That looks a mighty beast, and in neat condition. Looking forward to the thread. My 415V 3ph Direct Drive converter does the fast stop in 8 s by software control. I don't know if this would satisfy H&S for a commercial setup (ie if you had any employees) but it is certainly great in a home shop...

My Wadkin has the original 3ph 2.2 kW motor and works a treat, even on thick wood. I have a single phase to 415V convertor from Direct Drives - expensive but has worked well and their support is good.

Drooling over your Hardinge and Tiger buys! Nice work as usual. Keith

For most things, old British tools from eBay are good. For making knives, the one thing where you should lash out is top quality files - and these are not usually found second hand as they are usually then too worn, but sometimes are on ebay if you can see they have had little use. The makes I...