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Just in case it helps, my muh later ML8 has the following info on the plate: 1425 rpm motor (0.5 hp 3-phase or 0/5 h.p and 0.75 hp 1-phase) Four speeds were available: 700, 1140, 1780 and 2850 rpm. There seem to be occasional replacements on evilBay (about once every month or so). Good luck. Steve

Thanks for all the suggestions. I ended up with a screw extractor which was surprisingly easy to use and less risky than my hamfisted self using a large drill on the small screw head. Risky! As Woodcrafts_UK suggests, I do clean out the sockets before unscrewing. I use a pencil to clean out the...

Many thanks for all the useful replies! I shall seek out screw extractors after I've attempted the Dremel-slot trick. Cheers Steve

I have a Super Nova chuck and one of the removable jaws is now stuck because an Allen screw has become stripped. The key just stripped the socket circular and there's no way to get the screw out. Can anyone suggest a solution. I hope someone's experience can get me back in action. Fingers...

+1 for the exploded diagram. I inherited a ML8 and I, too, can scan the diagram for you. You can see what it looks like here: http://www.jfield.co.uk/workshop/ml8-documents.htm Out of interest, is your tailstock a little loose (side to side when sliding up the bed)? Do you need to pull it...

When I made prototype models I used spraymount adhesive as a first coat and then the paint top coat. This created a more crackly finish than the one you're trying to replicate. Worth trying on a blank. Good luck Steve

Very interesting tactic, Chas. I was wanting to lengthen the grip and I'm in the middle of re-purposing a batch of laser-printer feed rollers. These are plastic tubes with a grippy rubber sleeve on the outside. I'm currently trying to make a sleeve to pack the inner cavity so it takes the M6...

I've bought about a dozen books on evilBay out of which only the Richard Raffan books was worth having. My son gave me the Rowley book and it is very good. Happy turning! Steve

I inherited a Myford ML8 and I've got the same issue. I'm usually trying to drill into a piece that's held in a chuck. I tend to move the tail stock into a position close to the work piece while the lathe is running and pull the tailstock toward me while I tighten the position lock all the while...

That looks identical to the chuck I bought second hand that was described as a Supernova 2. I've bought two inserts for it that were variously described as for Technatool or Robert Sorby. One was a chuck insert 7/8 x12tpi Left hand thread (for the outboard of a Myford ML8) from Turner's Cabin...

Oh, poo! Many thanks for the responses. Sounds like I will end up shoving it back on evilBay since it's looking like it'll be unsafe using it outboard, anyway. Many thanks to Parvum for the motor advice. I like the idea of variable speed without juggling all the metal. That'll be a project...

Hello assembled geniuses! I'm sure one of you can get me out of a pickle. I bought a Woodcut bowl saver (http://www.axminster.co.uk/woodcut-bowlsaver-bowl-coring-system) on evil bay with the intention of cutting the centres out of big blanks that I intend to mount outboard of the ML8. Imagine my...

Very informative, chaps. Many thanks Steve

Similar to Bugbear's response, you could reverse the stencil process (i.e, as a negative). Apply stencil mask where you want to stain, and varnish or wax the rest. Remove mask and the stain should soak into the wood with probably less bleed than the usual process of stippling the stain through...

Hello folks I've sketched out an idea for two shallow bowls (c. 200mm dia.) to be joined together at the open ends which would incorporate a Perspex ring at the joint. I suspect I'll be using a proprietary epoxy adhesive but my question is has anyone turned Perspex? What sort of speed? What sort...

I live in Cheshunt, just down the A10. Is the wood still available? I could only take a little of it having only a small car and being a novice turner I wouldn't want to attempt anything too big. Please send a message with further details. Cheers Steve

Thanks for the advice, Mignal. Good sense about sand with grain and wipe off across. I'm always careful about oil and rags - too many inflammables nearby to risk anything spontaneous. I have several more pieces of the same wood so I think I'll try the slower slurry method on this one and do more...

Yes, I chose Tung oil because I plan to use it for food. It sounds like grain filling might require complicated processes and/or mixing of bizarre things. Someone suggested to me that I sand using oil and create a slurry. Presumably I'd let that dry in the grain pits and then use fine grit wet...

My first attempt at turning was a shallow bowl in what I believe to be mahogany. I sanded through the grits to 320 and then used wire wool. Then I applied about five or six coats of tung oil. Rubbed on using a cloth, left 10 mins and any obvious excess rubbed off. Left 24hrs between coats. It...

You might consider putting the wood in a sealed plastic bag prior to stuffing in the freezer. If not the little blighters might migrate to your frozen parsnips and upset your Sunday lunch!