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I will not remove the slope, but just put SLC to have a flattish floor, then put some liquid DPM (it looks like some moisture is coming through the concrete slab, not 100% sure but looks like it), then put some underlay and finally some PVC tiles. Should make the garage/workshop a bit more comfy.

Thanks, I've seen those and will probably get one once i decide to go ahead with grinding the garage floor. I initially thought about grinding the whole floor, and rent a professional machine to do so. But considering the price, and the poor state of the floor, I will just grind the high spots...

Thanks for the info, much appreciated 👍

I thought about it, but you need to buy the wheel and those are very expensive for those big machines. I dont plan to grind the whole floor, just the high spots.

Hi, I want to redo my concrete garage floor and : - Grind high spots - pour self levelling compound - put some underlay - install some PVC tiles in order to grind the high spots, I was thinking to use a grinding cup. I contacted Makita UK and asked them if it was usable in their standard...

thanks for the feedback. to be fair, i'd like to avoid methylene chloride. quite a nasty thing. I think i'll end up using a grinder, as i will need to remove some old concrete spill overs here and there.

You dont technically need to mark each side of the mortice ? The mortice width is normally driven by the width of you chisel. So you just need to mark one side of the mortice. Mortice gauge are useful if you cut a mortice bigger than your chisel and need multiple passes to have the correct width...

Hello, I have a concrete floor on the garage/workshop which I painted with heavy duty polyurethane floor paint. In order to make the place a bit more cozy/welcoming, i plan to install some underlay and plastic tiles. However, it looks like some moisture is going through the concrete and paint...

Thanks ! I will give it a try during the Christmas break and see if I can get it work :)

Yes, you're right , something like 25 mm between foil and plasterboard. Insulation boards would be much more expensive.

Was thinking about it. Might be worth giving it a try and if it jams I could just get it back in its original position.

Yes, the centre rail just carries the drag chain. There is a bit of clearance when the door is open between the rail and the door. My concern about lowering the centre rail is that it would not be at the same level as the side rails.

yes, we installed it when we moved in, 3 years ago. I would be happy not to destroy it yet :D

Hi, I have a classic double car garage (flat roof and joist) and I would like to insulate the ceiling to keep it a bit more comfortable during winter. I am planning to use some multifoil, stapled directly to the joists, then add some plasterboard to have a cleaner look. The main issue I have...

Reduced to 240£ + PP

Veritas bevel up jointer with PMV11 blade. In good condition, some cosmetic scratches on the sole, but nothing deep. Asking 280 £ + PP Asking 240 £ + PP

Another item that has been gathering dust for some time now. It is a 7 TPI rip cut. No damage, no rust and the handle is intact. Asking 170 £ + PP

Not using it much and has mostly been collecting dust the past few years. Good condition (no damage or scratches) Asking 90 £ + PP

Tom Fidgen has a plan in his book for a nice valet. Been thinking of doing it for couple of years now. In the meantime, what doesn't go to the laundry bin goes on top of the chest of drawers.

you can buy a metal plate that goes on top of the graphite sheet and prevents this issue. Axminster sells it (very cheap) and solves the issue. I've had a T4 a long time ago, didnt like it as very slow. Very pleased with my UE. You can buy belts elsewhere and get them cheaper if you buy a pack...