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Even though so many were made there are a finite number of planes out there so always good to see a plane restored and in use. Let's hope future generations will still be using them.

I don't use solvents like petrol, IPA and the like for health reasons so never tried them. My usual process is to mechanically remove the worst of the gunk with a blade, mix washing up liquid and water with the SiC grit I use for flattening stones and flatten away. Seems to clean the stone to a...

Planed up some 12" x 2" cherry this morn ready for an edge grain cutting board. I always use the same part of the bench because it is flat, how do I know it's flat? Because a board planed flat sits on it nicely without rocking with no discernible gap underneath it. How do I know the board is...

Very interesting links DW lots of reading to do but no intention of buying any way out of my pay grade. There are some edge pics in Odate's book comparing the edges obtained with Arks and King stones, the edges from the Ark stone looks more burnished but I have no idea which would be sharper.

Who's Chris Schwartz?

Are you saying that Japanese natural stones contain Aluminium in the form of AlOx as used in synthetics or in some other compound often found in sedimentary mud? The prime abrasive in all natural stones is Silica AFAIK or sand deposited and bound together with clay, Novaculite is a bit...

I was going to ask the same question but decided I would come out more confused than ever so I just cleaned up the flat side and sharpened the bevel at the 25 degrees it was ground at. Only used it so far for trimming green walking stick shanks and it worked fine bevel down, my preference. Of...

Depending how many you are doing at a time then I would use a blob of epoxy in the shrink tube before you shrink it I have even used gel type CA glue

What I do is check both sides of the board and plane the side that is concave first you can shim the ends to prevent rocking but I don't bother, plane one edge square and then go after the convex side. No idea if this is the correct procedure but it works for me. Otherwise the convex side will...

That Moser table and chairs looks like something Ikea might sell neither of which is to my taste. Furniture I have is made by Wood Brothers (Old Charm oak) and Ercol, elm, which has stood up up to a lot of hard use and will get passed down to my daughters if they want it. I do admire the work of...

I thought the Crystolon stones were sintered but it appears not magnesium bonded https://www.knivesandtools.co.uk/en/pt/ ... tabbutton1 and you can use them with water or so they say not that I would dare ;0). Only 60 quid for a replacement stone. Suggest looking at the Naniwa range of SiC...

IFAIK the 1.2K is Alox and the 1K SiC. The 1.2K is quite porous as in you can see the water soaking in and is definitely a fast cutter quite happy to handle any steel I have used it with. Comparatively soft as in you do get particle release but you are not down and playing in the mud like the...

I just followed Stoo's instructions for the #120 and provided you use lots of water then it just keeps on cutting, moving to oil would mean no going back. I did say the Sigma 1K which is a different stone to the 1.2K seems to be finer and slower cutting while the 1.2K is softer, comparatively...

Another advantage of going for a 5 1/2 is that you can standardise on blades from a #4 1/2 to a #7, saying that a #5 with a cambered blade I have found better for fast removal of timber. Ray Iles will sort you out a good plane at a cost more than ebay but less than a quarter of the price of a...

A good Washita will last you a lifetime or two which would not make it economically viable for Norton who would much rather cover that market with their waterstones and made in Mexico India oilstones. Perfectly happy with the Sigma 120 so no need to change, I reckon it hogs off steel faster...

You mean they could sell Washitas for a hundred each? Sounds like the basis for a very good cottage industry to me. The translucent stones seem to have a bit of a cult following hence the price. Well the Japanese according to Odate kept a carborundum stone in their sharpening kit for fast...

My experience with an LV LAJ used as a jack plane is that on anything other than very benign timber you will get tear out, yes you can put 40 degree plus bevels on it but then it becomes a smoothing plane and not a jack plane. Unable to tell much difference between a LA BU plane and a good BD...

Oil stones? Nasty, slow cutting, dirty, oily things and so last century,,,,or was it the one before? Last half decent CF I saw on ebay went for more than a hundred quid and there are tons of the stuff still in the ground just up the road. Anyway I don't use oil on my CFs but they are so slow...

We were not allowed to sharpen at my school so blunt chisels and planes were the norm. Teacher used a Linisher (?) in the metalwork shop to grind the primary bezels although there was a large what was probably an electric sandstone wheel. You had to moan about how blunt the tool was before you...

Records mostly in 4 1/2, 5 1/2, 6 and 7 but I do have Stanleys in 4 1/2, 5 1/2 and 7, block plane is a QS which I bought at a show years ago when they were cheap. Spokeshaves are Stanley and need fettling.