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If it wasnt for exmoor and the bristol channel, you would be welcome to "nip" round and use mine...

not looked, but its certainly set up as per axminster's spec at present i just looked on their website, and, whilst this is a slighly different variant, its the same - the tables below would fold toward the opperator -

Its this one, or there abouts - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Ppb52hCgKU&t=4s See at about the 4:40 min mark, he folds up the tables - but what is not immediately obvious if you just fast foward is that he has turned the whole machine around at that point - so it looks like the tables are...

Ive got one of the cheaper axminster planer thicknessers. Standing at the machine, using the jointer function is fine. You pass the job from right to left, and the dust extractor fits to the left. But then to convert to thicknesser, the tables have to fold toward you. It would seem so much...

I tried thicknessing to remove the tar, and, whilst it works, its messy, and you wouldnt want to do it with new blades. I tried a blow torch and a scraper, and that was simple, but you would really need three hands, or a jig. Ive concluded that if i suddenly accquire more of this, and go about...

Whilst looking on ebay for spindle moulders or router tables for sorting the grooves, i realised that what i really want is a floor, not a spindle moulder. Ive worked out that 50% of what i have is entirely usable, or will be after cleaning, and 50% would need re-engineering. Very little would...

I think im kind of stuffed with this one anyway. I have 19sq mtrs. I need 15sq mtrs. So i figured buying a touch over 25% more would do me. But, without re-processing, there will be too much waste. Even if i lower my standards, its touch and go, and id have to do all the work before i knew...

I purchased a full size snooker table for the slate a couple of years back. I kept the flat wood, but just gave the legs away... The idea of sticking these together fills me with dread! I need to count how many i actually have, and do some sums to check - it may be that i have 3x what i need...

I think ive concluded that im not going to purchase it. At first glance, £50 is in the middle of ebay's completed listings, however, this machine is pretty bare on accessories, and ebay items selling for similar seem more comprehensively accessorised. And its not as if they're rare - a whole...

The blades on the thicknesser are about to be replaced. This will be the last job they do. I thought id use the old blades to remove the rubbish, then use a new set of blades to normalise to thickness. I thought about re-cutting the slot. If i were to do that, as some of the parts are...

Further to the above - If i do decide to remove the grooves, what do you think the best method would be? I dont get on well with my friends table saw. I might think about making up a jig for my RAS, or, possibly making a sled to run them through the thicknesser in batches?

I have a stack of parquet here, which has too much damage to lay as-is. Its nice mahogany, but too many of the grooves are damaged (ie the top surface half of the groove has cracked off). Now i either cut my massive losses at this point (i paid less than firewood price for it!) or i figure out...

Someone on another forum is selling an ELU MOF 96. I was casually thinking of replacing my half-broken gifted b&q jobbie, so im considering it, but... I know most of the parts are available, but, when i look about, most of the threads about the unit are from a decade ago, and they were long in...

Glue is recently purchased, so i hope within date. Temp may be an issue - i left it to go off in an unheated outhouse. I watched a few you tube vids which suggested i may be clamping too hard. Im not trying to glue end grain. Should a glue like cascamite go glass hard when set, or should...

Im trying to glue up three simple boards, size about 14.5mm x 65mm. Im wanting to glue them on the short face (the 14.5mm one). Theyre only about 50cm long. Yesterday, i tried cascamite structural, mixed as per directions. Took out of the clamps this morning, and the drips were still mushy...

How come it cant all be DIY? I see people doing all sorts of things with hand plane blades - i know these are longer and so its going to be harder, and they all need to be done roughly the same for balancing, but im wondering why it cant all be done in the workshop? Im new, so i just dont...

I have seen a version of the wooden block where someone cut a double width grove in one side, but without that, i feel that working with a 3 blade set would be awkward? I dont really understand why the veritas unit isnt longer - it seems that a great number of machines are greater than 8" width.

Thank you. Yes, i know that one side does not matter. I even looked at both sides to see if completely reversing the bevel would work but nether is great. I watched a bunch of youtube vids, and looked on websites and the like, and the general consensus seemed to be "some pitting can be dealt...

So, following advice here, i went on ebay and acquired a Stanley 4 1/2. Now that it is here, the level of pitting on the iron is of some concern to me. Whoever sharpened the blade last time has added some bevel to the back of the blade to avoid the pitting, but a lot of it is pretty deep...

I get a whole load of waste wood - our home runs on it (heating, cooking, DHW) but some of it is not your standard pallet wood. Ive run some of it through the planer (a lot of tear out on some) and put a bit of tung oil on it to bring out the colours, and taken some photos. Here is a link to...