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Haha :) sorry BM it's gone into the "that might come in handy later" drawer for the moment. Just a quick video on how I heat treated the blade for this plane. 7m4J_4V8v3k

Video incoming. Like D_W says It's an old paint tin cleaned and washed out, I then drilled 4 holes and inserted bolts to act as legs. Next I mixed fine builders sand with plaster of Paris and water to make a thick paste. I filled the bottom 2 inches of the tin with the paste then inserted a...

Also in other news I started work on the forge today. Just got to wait for it to fully dry for a week or so which is okay as I haven't even started on the blade yet.

Thanks for clearing that up Ian, makes perfect sense now. I will look into this method in the future as it certainly seems a good approach to take and like you say the ability to remove the lever cap for fettling is a bonus.

Thanks for the comments guys. Ian, don't worry I'm not getting any quicker. I'm still catching this thread up. There was about 3-4 weeks of work to the plane at this point. Thanks for the advice about the cheese head screws chaps. I think they suit some planes more than others. I do prefer the...

Getting towards the end of my next plane. Another mitre plane which is a little smaller than the last and I've had a go at making a brass lever cap as well. Not the easiest thing to make, lots of hand work involved but the hardest part was drilling the centre hole square through it. Our pillar...

Thanks for the messages guys, really glad you're finding the thread interesting. Thanks Ian for the link on the relief cuts in the dovetail, it's all starting to make sense now.....at least I think so :) and thank you for linking to Peters site, that's my evening sorted. I have seen his planes...

Cheers Ian. Just to clarify the gaps at the top of the dovetails are only filed 1 -1.5 mm deep to create the "double dovetail" effect. Beyond that the dovetail is straight. Difficult for me to explain but these pictures show what I mean. You can see that if I had not filed this material...

What is it you are making? Tricoya is very expensive compared to MR-MDF and mainly used for external work. It's a lot heavier than reuglar MDF and dulls cutters quickly, even carbide tipped. It's main benefit is its weather durability, I believe it has a 50 year guarantee for external use...

Thanks for the reply Ian much appreciated. While I'm really happy with how this plane performs, it takes a super shaving and is a joy to use on a shooting board I am disappointed that the dovetails didn't fill fully. I think I over did the angle on the double dovetail and as you say had a lot...

Thanks Andy. Funnily enough Bill's videos where some of the first I found when researching how to make metal planes and it was his planes and techniques that inspired me to have a go at making mine. I've not met him in person but when I was making my first plane I e-mailed him for some advice...

I've had some spare time to my self today so finally managed to finish the last video in the series. It's a long one to finish so I'll start with the pictures. I made the box from Iroko and finished it with a dark mahogany stain. I lined the box with Tulip wood. I added a faux suede liner...

Wonderful write up and Excellent work to boot. Lots of helpful tips, thanks for sharing them. Your plane looks brilliant and i bet it works a charm too. I know to well the plight of a wandering drill bit, You've done a good job getting over the issue. Very difficult to correct the curve now...

With this plane coming to an end and the fact I enjoyed making it so much I've started on another Mitre plane. Very similar to the current one only almost half it's size. Once bent the body will be about 4" long I wanted to challenge myself and Go for as tight a mouth opening as I can...

Another update for any one still following. Part 8 is up. In this part I start to make the blade, cutting it from a blank of O1 tool steel, shaping and finally heat treating it. 6cPGE4O0WlE I'm coming to the end of the build and video footage now, Just a couple more parts to go.

Thanks for the comment Ian. I too was totally ignorant to the different grades of brass and it was only by sheer luck that I bought Cz108 for my first plane. Couldn't agree more. In my research similar threads where the inspiration for me to give it a go, I hope this thread is the same for...

In part 6 I start to pein the sole and body of the plane together. This is where the unknown brass type comes back to bite me. Unlike the Cz108 brass I had used for the first plane, which deformed nicely and spread into the bevelled dovetails this uknown brass sheared, shattered and broke off...

Fantastic work! thanks for sharing it. Getting the skew on the lever cap right looks like a total head scratcher, the wooden mock up looks like it was invaluable for this stage. Thanks for the tip of filing the dovetail sockets too, I shall give this a try next time. You talk of using a...

Thanks sploo. Unfortunately I don't have time to do long sessions on it though I'd like to. I try to do an hour or so an evening depending on how the day has gone. The first plane took around 4 months to finish, the second was slightly quicker. It's just nice to be doing something new and...

The plane is starting to take shape now. I've been busy with my daughter over the last few weeks, she's finally learnt how to crawl so is keeping me busy! The body of the plane is pretty much complete other than a final bit of finishing, I've added a bevel to the top edge to make it a little...