Search results

Thanks for the comments guys I really appreciate it :)

Thanks for the comments guys :) Chris, I'm leaving the side cupid bows exposed (unfilled) I had decided to do this from the beginning as mentioned earlier I wasn't sure if the softer brass would deform when trying to peen the steel into it. In the future I'd like to have another go at making...

Thanks Andy, massive relief for sure I'm just glad it worked out. Work hardening is a phrase I've not heard of before and from a quick google search it seems that is exactly what was happening. Interesting to know heating the brass can help to soften it again I'll have to remember that. It...

Thanks Trees :D The former is nothing elaborate just a lump of Iroko machined square. I'm going for a lever cap design but with a single iron instead of a bridge and wedge. Now that the plane sides have been cut to shape I can permanently fix them to the sole. This is done by peining the...

Another vote for ACF50, it's good stuff though not particularly cheap.

Thank you for your comment Gasman and the words of encouragement I really appreciate it. This was exactly my concern too. I've cut the bows into the steel on the sole also. My plan is to peen the brass into the steel bows on the sole but leave the brass bows on the sides of the plane exposed...

Thanks for the advice trees. I've made a former that sits inside the body and I'll secure it to that while peining, hopefully it will support the metal and keep the sides square. That's the idea any way :)

I'm all for pushing boundaries and creating something new but I don't like the look of the 2 Bridge City planes at all. They just remind me to much of the mass production world. I do like the D-ring locking handles and cradle idea though. Have to say I'm a big fan of Lazarus planes, he's...

With the majority of the mouth done I turned my attention back to the dovetails. I spent a while making sure the corners where clean and sharp and that the bottoms where filed to my scribe lines. Getting them as accurate as possible will help later when I come to peen them shut. Then I had a...

Hi Thetyreman thanks for the welcome. D_W I've had this file for a while which I picked up from a boot sale. I have no idea what kind of file it's called but looks similar to some of the vixen files I've seen on E-bay, though mine has a fixed handle and isn't flexible. The Vixen files I've seen...

Thank you for the warm welcome every one and thank you D_W for the advice I'm looking into vixen files as I type :) I finished cutting out the sole and rounded the ends with a file. Next was to mark out the pins onto the sole. I used blue marker and a scribe to make the lines easier to see...

Thanks for the welcome Chris and Mark. I'm taking lots of pictures so hopefully they should keep things interesting.

Very cool Raymond I like that.

Thanks for the welcome Andy

Hi all, I know a lot of you are interested in build projects so I thought I'd start a thread on something I've been wanting to make for a long time. It's nice to document the progress and have an on-line diary of how things are going. I've actually started the same thread on another forum and a...

From the limited photos I'd say it looks like Ash too, though ash does have a very strong distinctive smell when cut, sweet/sour smell. I'd also never use ash for external joinery, it won't last 5 minutes and will go horrible black colour when weathered.

If you apply a very light first coat of oil it should help to reduce any blotchyness. Problem is people apply to heavy a first coat and don't allow sufficient drying time before applying the next. Try a very light coat then leave to fully cure before cutting back and applying next coat...

looks good to me, MERRY CHRISTMAS! :D