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If you intend to screw the sheets I'd recommend the use of stainless steel screws, any others will eventually rust possibly causing the filler to fail. Personally I'd consider using screws to hold the pieces together until the glue has fully cured, then remove them and fill the remaining hole...

Have used Tricoya plenty for external joinery work, it really is a superior material for painted external projects. I've not used the Medite exterior you've linked to, but from reading it looks to be similar. We only ever used a Phenol Resorcinol glue to bond it. They are exceptionally high...

Two of the best chops saws you get buy, imo the Festool just beats out the Bosch. It's rock solid, reliable, repeatable, great base with extending arms, though if its for a workshop you're far better off making a dedicated table and fence system for it. Micro compound bevel adjuster is great as...

Thanks for the replies chaps and all the likes, really appreciate all your support (y)

With the plane nearly done I was eager to take a shaving. I was pleased to see it make a cut but the mouth needed some refinement, I used a barrette file to ease it slightly. With that done I could move onto the box. I mitred some piece of oak and used masking tape to pull it all together to...

With the body of the plane complete I could move onto finishing the infills and wedge. I used masking tape to cover the brass to prevent the finish going onto it. I then pulled out my finest Douwe Egberts French polish. A mix of blonde shellac flakes and denatured alcohol. I applied the...

Cheers Ian. Polishing the sole was definitely a pursuit in vanity, I did it mainly for the finished photos. Like you've said, even after a little use it's lost it's shine, though it's certainly been the quickest plane that I've lapped so far. I remember the first plane I made I spent 3 days...

With the blade finished I could start working on the wedge. I had a piece of padauk that had a small amount of contrasting sapwood which I thought would look nice in the wedge. I cut the wedge out and started shaping it with a coping saw and files. With the wedge partially formed I added a...

Hey Marcros The etching it's self is quite quick depending on the voltage you use. These where done with a 7.2v battery charger and took around 10 minutes to fully etch. I also have a 12v charger which will etch deeper a lot quicker. If you wanted a light etch it would only take a few...

With the blade shaped I could begin to heat treat it. I covered the blade with borax (using some thin gauge wire to help hold it to the blade) as a make shift anti scale compound. I then fired up the tin can forge, using a mapp gas torch as the fuel. I have a magnet screwed to a piece of...

With the majority of the peening work done on the body I could start to shape it. After a lot of pencil scribbles I settled on a design I liked and went at it with hand files. After removing the bulk of material with files I was getting tired/lazy so came up with another way to finish off...

Hey Chris, thank you so much for following my progress and taking the time to reply, honestly I appreciate it so much. I pour so much of my time into these projects, from making them to photographing and write ups, mostly for my own pleasure and curiosity but it is really nice to read...

Next up I moved onto the bed of the plane. I cut and shaped a piece of padauk to fit into the body. I cut an initial bed angle on it but this will be changed slightly later once I have the blade made and can see the bedding angle better. Next I cut a chunk from a piece of round bar Then...

Cheers Ian, that's how I'd imagine you'd do it. I assume a small amount of spring back isn't an issue as it will conform to the shape of the sole once peened any way? Or did you shape the sole to the sides after they where bent? I'd be interested to see a build log on your coffin plane for sure.

With the sole of the plane fitted I could move onto cutting the mouth opening. Because the blade sits bevel down I could cut the mouth opening with the sole as one piece, rather than having to split the sole into two pieces like with bevel up planes. I made a wooden block shaped at the same...

Thanks for your post Ian, really appreciate all you've said and the encouragement to continue (y) That's a beautiful plane you've made, I bet it works a treat. the dovetailing and styling look amazing, I like how the front bun comes back on it's self rather than going straight up or forward...

@Droogs ,No worries, thanks for asking for me though I really appreciate it. Thanks for the link too Peri (y)

With the plane body now formed I started to make the back brace. I cut a piece of 01 tool steel and started to form the dovetails to match the body. This turned out to be a little more difficult than I had expected as the shoulders of the dovetails had to be curved to follow the curve of the...

This project started in the usual fashion, with a quick sketch and a lump of aluminium. I marked the inner dimensions of the planes body onto the aluminium then cut and filed it to shape. I will later use this as the forming block for the plane. With the form filed I used a thick piece...

Cheers Ian, I thought it might be something along those lines. Thanks for the info on bronze, I need to look more in to the grades but will be limited to what I can afford and find. Just wanted to give it a try really, bronze planes have a real charm about them and I'm curious to see the...