Search results

Carbide spiral upcut bit; lubricant (eg Trendwax); reduce the speed; fine cuts; hold everything very firmly!

There’s also no real need for the top panel on the plinth. So: build the plinth, putting a cross member under each of the vertical divisions; install and level the plinth; build the main structure as 3 open-fronted boxes; position them on the plinth and screw down, et voila!

I’ve bought a few batches of PAR oak and tulipwood from G&S, and been happy with the quality. The other thing to say is that their delivery charges are reasonable.

Ok, I’ll just have to use four candles

Circular bar and slice at an angle

That is just a Schuko plug in a shroud. Go to Amazon and search for ‘Schuko socket’ and you’ll find several.

Rather than double sided tape, use 2 layers of masking tape back-to-back, cyanoacrylate on one, accelerator on the other. You could use one of the ‘delicate surface’ masking tapes to reduce the likelihood of damaging the lacquer. Guide-bush guided cut, down-cut spiral bit, and run the masking...

However, the Material Safety Data Sheet for POR15 tells a slightly different story https://sds.por15.com/Metal%20Prep/POR-15-Metal-Prep-40201-40204-40205-40216-40255-240201-240204-240205-240216-240255-SDS.pdf Key ingredients in POR15 appear to be zinc phosphate and phosphoric acid.

I think there are at least 2 important differences between POR15 and phosphoric acid - POR15 is said to be non-toxic and non-corrosive. Phosphoric acid, on the other hand…

Two radii - one specifying the curve across the sole (1”), the other along the sole (12”)

Or Wera (and, I guess other manufacturers do hex drivers that have a screwdriver-type handle. Like this - https://products.wera.de/en/screwdrivers_kraftform_plus__series_300_352.html

I had a quick look, but didn’t find one. However, it’s a pretty simple circuit to build. I’ll draw a schematic and post it here (probably tomorrow)

+1 for Sikaflex EBT The other thing to look at is the state of the fixings between sill and frame. Last year, our window cleaner handed me the sill off one of our softwood windows; it “came away in his hand”! No great surprise to find that it had been attached with mild steel brads, which had...

I’d advise against a simple latching footswitch in this application. Two reasons: first, how do you know the switch state when you first connect it? Second, in the event of power failure, the switch could remain in the ‘on’ state. In either case, the connected machine could start...

Nails! Luxury. I can remember when they sold lumps of iron ore - you had to smelt them yourself, then beat it into nails with your bare hands, then cut the threads with your teeth!

I assume you mean the type without a turntable. We have a built-in Neff one that matches our other appliances. It’s 900W. Works fine, though you do lose the entertainment of watching your dinner rotating. The upside is that cleaning up is easier after the inevitable explosion.

A common problem with small disc/belt sanders. If, as I guess from the pictures, the table is only mounted at one end, it’s very likely to shift under any load. I have the same issue with the belt sander part of my Axminster disc/belt sander. A couple of potential solutions: 1. Modify the...

They certainly look like cluster flies, which are a (variable) feature of rural living. They are a pest, but actually harmless. The flies lay eggs in the ground, where the larvae emerge and develop into flies, which then leave, typically in early autumn, and search out somewhere to hibernate...

Sounds like the collet has been damaged. You have two basic choices: 1. Buy a new collet, either from Trend or (I think) Wealden sell them. That should take you back to where you were. 2. Replace the collet with a Musclechuck. Woodworkers Workshop sell them in this country. That will be...

I’ve got laminate over chipboard. Works fine, no traction problems, and wheels run easily on it. Easy to sweep, and easy to install.