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That’s lovely. I know what you mean about the size, I bought a parlor guitar recently after wanting one for a long time and I’d never go back to a larger bodied guitar now.

The current production SCM S440(?) has the slant on the column, I remember as I used to fit e-stops to them for the UK education market not too long ago and you had to get it right or it would foul the door. But I’ve a feeling these weren’t made in the SCM factory. I remember being told that...

Could be an older Centauro or SCM, the fence looks similar to what you get on the modern machines

Wow, great work!

How old is the house? Noticing the comment above somewhere about a difference of 9mm being too much, I remembered I measured all the steps and they were all different by at least as much. I removed the top step, raised it a small amount and lapped in the ply on the top floor, the difference is...

Looks quite nifty, once you’ve relearned the muscle memory of the appropriate angles. I remember watching a video at the Sheffield steel museum, they would straddle those big stones and now and again they would explode…

Stresses change in any timber as parts of it are removed, the sort of workpieces she’s describing are completely unpredictable especially when centrifugal force comes into play. It sounds about as much fun as those lumberjacks who cut up deadfall ‘widowmakers’. I think if I had an affinity...

@gasman I’ve just come across this, did you ever finish it? It was looking lovely where you left off.

Thanks, that's very helpful

I did hear that but then others say x 2 fixings is ok as long as the boards have space between to move independently (as opposed to one screw through two boards). They’re 140mm wide, seems a lot for one screw? And with the profile (simple, since I’m cutting it myself) wouldn’t it be prone to...

Thinking about it a bit more, that was never going to work anyway - I need to fix like this really Just need to make up my mind whether to nail (perhaps without the annular shank, if it's likely to cause problems...

I was planning to nail this way, perhaps I need to hire or borrow a paslode for a narrower shank?

Me too, does that not seem a large shank for nailing cladding? I’m only guessing, if it’s right it’s right, but I might need to drill to avoid splitting as I’m nailing at the edges. Perhaps I’m looking at the wrong sort of nail. Or perhaps I shouldn’t nail at the edges? More research needed.

Are these really 3mm shank, or will that be referring to the head? https://tradefixdirect.com/stainless-steel-nails/a2-stainless-steel-annular-ring-lost-head-nails-50-x-3mm?gclid=Cj0KCQjw98ujBhCgARIsAD7QeAg7vMl4wSyUQ7WzZ-kxOGQJBd9Ko31ZCatEciDyQ9x82W7JyWGzvCIaAgdEEALw_wcB#moreInfo Thanks!

That looks great

If horizontal the joint strip might encourage water ingress from dripping condensation and the result could be worse than nothing at all. If really unavoidable make the lap angle downwards, router on a track if possible.

Know anyone with a 3D printer?

Sounds like a bit of a nightmare, I’d probably be inclined to just chase it out I think, and make good afterwards. Could it go behind a skirting board?

A small cheap CNC router like Ooznest (£2K ish?) would cut all the materials* if you're patient enough, other than the stainless which it could still engrave. *you'll still need to find the right grades of alu & brass for good results, and copper will be horrible

OP - when you drill a hole in that location, regardless of any metal that might be within the plaster, is there a hollow cavity behind?