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I’m restoring a pine staircase - nothing fancy, there’s another thread somewhere - and have dozens of holes and cracks to fill. I’m not expecting it to look perfect by any stretch, but just a bit tidier and **slightly** less obvious. The advice here was to use sanding dust for the best colour...

The end stuck in the drill spindle is probably a Morse taper and the end sticking out is another taper (usually JT, for Jacobs who are a common manufacturer of drill chucks). https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper There may be a slot in the side of the spindle body allowing you to fit a...

Richard Potter? http://www.fortimber.co.uk/redwood.htm

New brush for the lower wheel, just used a bit of draft excluder brush, handy stuff to have lying about. I imagine the genuine part is a small fortune but it’s the same stuff. New blade fitted. It’s a 3/8” 4 skip, probably best you invest in a few different blades Mike. They’re 73”...

It’s going back together now. I’ve heard a couple of mentions of the table tilt being stiff and awkward, so when this went back together I checked carefully for any signs of the aluminium castings galling. Sure enough it was dragging a bit so took it apart and scraped out any lumps and bumps...

What material?

Sent you a PM.

Dealt with the few bits with surface rust. Had this chemical blacking kit I’ve been meaning to try for a while. Made up a few trays with scraps of wood and a double layer of thick plastic sheet. It worked well.

Fixed the blade marks in the fence. Had some of this stuff in the cupboard must have bought it ages ago as when I opened it up the glue was hard. The powders were still ok so gave it a go with medium viscosity superglue Wish I hadn’t bothered to be honest, can’t really blame the product...

New tyres. After removing the old ones (no tools needed, just peel them off) the adhesive came off easily with petrol. Make sure they’re spotless. Chuck the new ones in a bucket of hot water. It won’t do anything, but it will make you feel like you tried. Clamp tyre to wheel with...

The upper / lower blade guide thrust bearings are marked 608Z, but actually they’re 608ZZ or 2Z indicating seals on both sides. The replacements are SKF. The shaft can be drifted out easily, these are just a light interference fit. Sorry, only have 2 hands and couldn’t be bothered finding a...

Not an electrician but I think a lot of startrite motors are dual voltage, ie., the 3ph ones can run on 1ph with an inverter, not much to buy and set up these days. This is the ratings plate on a little 3ph bandsaw I was looking at last week

Interesting to see Tyme and Multico parts on the site, is there some relationship with Inca and these other companies?

Tidied up the blade guides earlier. They’re reversible, and should be 45deg One still had the factory edge The others needed a touch up Plane iron jig on a flat plate (engineers surface plate in this case, but a sheet of glass etc. would work), 120 grit emery sheet Had them looking...

Hi, Mikes bandsaw doesn’t have the cutout, so it could be a mod or variant. The system you have collecting just below the blade works well for most bandsaws, it’s similar to the proper Inca part. Thanks for the tip on the insert...I was going to draw up and 3D print a replacement but since...

Parts have all arrived now

Gotwoodltd (eBay / Instagram)

End grain photo please

I’ve heard that said a few times, is there any reason you wouldn’t just turn it inside out?

Repair to crack in plastic cover - 2mm aluminium sheet formed around a radius to match the inside of the plastic cover. Superglued the crack first then epoxied in place It would have been possible to plastic weld this but it seems to be a weak spot and I thought the reinforcement wouldn’t hurt.