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The first irons Clifton produced were branded 'Victor', and sold exclusively through Axminster Power Tool Centre - that was the late 1990s, I think. I bought one and fitted it to my Record 07, and it's still going strong. I think when the Clifton bench planes came on the market (very late 1990s...

For anybody with a hand-crank grinder, search out a supplier of replacement wheels of different thicknesses. Dress the periphery of each 'new' wheel to a curved profile, and you can reshape and in-curved cutting irons quite easily - not just moulding plane irons, but in-cannel gouges...

Thomas Flinn stopped making the forged Clifton irons, but instead started making O1 irons cryogenically treated. I've not heard much about them yet, but they're available from Flinn's - http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/aca ... LANES.html - (scroll down a bit) together with thicker cap-irons...

Plastic deformation - moving metal around. Like using a burnisher to turn a hook on a card scraper.

I'm just interpreting the evidence presented in the scienceofsharp link. It's the best evidence I've ever seen on what's happening during stropping. That doesn't make it final and conclusive, of course. However, one pass over a stropping medium (or perhaps some stropping media) could cause some...

Excellent stuff! However long you continue with woodworking (many decades, I hope!) and however many fine tools you may use or acquire, that little plane will always have a special place, because it was your Dad's. I know I find that with tools I've inherited, and others on the forum have...

Well, strictly speaking, a mitre plane is not intended to be used on a shooting board. With a mitre jack, certainly - but not for shooting. The fact that many mitre planes ARE used for shooting is down to the versatility of their individual designs - it's a bonus rather than the original intent...

Guilty as charged - and proud of it! :D

That suggests to me that stropping is more a burnishing process (plastic deformation - moving metal around) rather than an abrasive process (removing metal). Putting it another way, the main effect seems to be slightly reshaping an edge by deforming metal to where it's wanted to make a better...

Handsome is as handsome does! If it does what it's supposed to effectively, and it's comfortable to use, do its looks really matter that much? After all, it's a tool, not a film star!

Something I've noticed with Evostik Resin W is that it starts to develop small, very hard lumps - more like large grit - if it's stored for more than about a year or so (and that's stored indoors, too). Rather a problem, because you don't really notice them until you spread it on the job; you...

Lancashire pattern, made by a Lancashire lad but not in Lancashire - well, two out of three ain't bad! That's a nice looking little plane, too. It would be interesting to hear your thoughts about using it when you've had a chance to give it a bit of a workout.

I'd go for 8tpi as a rip, 10tpi as a cross-cut panel saw - so same as Phil. These days, for someone doing mainly furniture work byhand in hardwoods, I reckon you could do all you need with a 26" 4tpi rip, a 22" 8tpi rip and a 20" or 22" 10 or 12tpi crosscut, (supplemented with a hardpoint in...

Fenn and Co were a London firm noted for their ornamental turning lathes, but they were located in Newgate Street for most of their existence - http://uphill.org.uk/pages/ot/Fenn/about_fenn.htm - which I mention because those chisels do look quite like the lighter pattern of turning chisel you'd...

That's absolutely true, of course; though just after the war both furniture and reasonable timber were very hard to come by, so there was a strong incentive to use 'make-do' methods - it was out of necessity, not fashion. Now, it's a fashion, pure and simple. Like all fashions, it'll wither...

That's an unusually clear, even mark!

The only maker of new in-cannel gouges I can find is Henry Taylor - http://www.henrytaylortools.co.uk/wwchisel.html - but tracking down a retailer seems more difficult, Toolnut being the only supplier to offer the full range that I could find - http://toolnut.co.uk/products/chisels The other...

Two hand tool only options; 1) As already suggested - remove bulk of waste with chisels, finish to depth with a hand router, trim curved edge with scribing (paring) gouge. 2) Accepting that not every tool kit has paring gouges, then remove waste and finish base as above, then trim to as near...

We know. You've been banging on about it for damn near two years on this forum. We get the message. Actually, we got the message some considerable time ago. Maybe time to drop it and move on to other matters?

Quite easy to trace the source of emails, otherwise it must have been very tempting to reply: "M, FO Ta, All"