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A finished piece 200mm x 50mm x 3mm thick (8" x 2" x 1/8") isn't THAT thin and flexible. Just butting it against a stop a bit thinner than 3mm will be fine, if the cut is started with weight bearing on the toe-end of the plane, as you should be anyway at the start of a cut. Just make sure the...

I think quite a few joiners would be capable of such work, and one or two posters on this forum specialise in refurbishment and repair to such joinery, even to the level of using original methods and period tools. There are also a few who have demonstrated their ability to make and fit high-end...

1) Make sure the bench top is nice and flat, with no sneaky little dips or humps that will reflect in the finished work. Plane it flat if it isn't. 2) Find or make a strip of wood about 100 to 150mm long, about 2 to 2.5mm thick and something like 20 to 25mm wide. Screw or pin it to the bench...

How about Leonard and Frederick, after Leonard Bailey and Frederick T. Stanley? Historically relevant, and no awkward political associations. Probably better than Jack and Jill, especially as they both seem to have decent knobs.

They do indeed; https://www.henrytaylortools.co.uk/wwchisel.html - along with a lot of turning tools. Robert Sorby also manufacture a range; https://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/woodworking.html - also along with a large range of turning tools. Both firms have a long history. Henry Taylor...

Just out of idle curiosity, I looked up Edward Preston's 1909 catalogue. They list 20 different styles of chisel handle, most of which were available in 9 different sizes, ferrules from 1/2" to 1" by 1/16" increments. (The boxwood handles were available in Best Boxwood and in Best Hard Boxwood -...

You need one of these; https://www.classichandtools.com/acatal ... tml#SID=19 All the bells and whistles, only about £100 a pop. Those AI chisels are made for cabinet work - paring and light tapping with a mallet, for which they are superb - light, balanced and precise. They're not intended...

If you look on AI's website (Ashley Iles Tool Store) they give you the option to buy chisels unhandled, at a few pounds discount to the finished handled versions. I gather it used to be the norm for the better tool dealers to stock unhandled chisels and a range of handles in different sizes and...

It's neither here nor there. A 1mm skewed edge on a 3mm chisel would be a slight nuisance, but easily rectified. A 1mm skew on a wider chisel is something many a working chisel probably has - it'll still cut wood. Just sharpen it and use it - after about two or three sharpenings, you can adjust...

As far as I know, there are (at least) two different numbering systems for woodcarving tools, but here's a link to one of them, from the Sheffield List, which I hope might help a bit; https://d3h1zj156zzd4j.cloudfront.net/p ... ldlist.pdf The gouge numbers of the different systems don't...

It sounds as if the half-nut is not fully engaging with the thread after it's been lifted clear to allow quick travel. Maybe there's some dirt or debris or a cob of hardened pine resin encrusting the thread in the nut, stopping it engaging fully. There's many a problem been solved by a...

Just like to endorse Andy's recommendation to buy a copy if you are at all interested in planes and their makers in Britain. The list of known plane-makers runs to 460 pages, and is supported by chapters on the development of planemaking, the features and development of different types of plane...

I think the unidentified doo-dad in the middle picture may be a radius turning attachment, used for the forming of balls, hemispherical recesses and similar, used by removing the topslide, putting the doo-dad in it's place with a toolpost or 4-tool turret on top, and radius set by the...

In woodwork, a 12" square is the sort of tool you'd use for marking-out large components or checking the squareness of furniture carcases on assembly. A 12" engineer's square is a fearsomely expensive beast, too. For face to edge checking, something around 6" (or even 4" if using a decent...

Phew - this could get complicated! All steels are crystalline, but the crystals vary a lot in size and characteristic. Imagine a crucible of molten pure iron, poured into it's mould. As it cools and starts to solidify, crystals begin to form. At the point at which it has just solidified, those...

Excellent result! The good thing is, that's a one-off job. You'll get maybe three or four sharpenings out of that saw before you need to reset, and you now know that the set required for your type of work is minimal - just a very slight tweek. It's not wise to try oversetting and back-bending...

I'm not really sure how to explain this without 'techno-babble' (or using my knowledge of materials science gleaned from professional training and experience), but it's a matter of how much steels are deformed, worked or stressed before fatigue cracking (see - can't do it without techno terms)...

Squeezing in stages in a 4" vice is fine. Well, it worked for me, anyway! Not so sure about the aluminium - it's a lot softer than saw steel, so the teeth will dig into the ali rather than bend. Also, you'd need a lot of pressure, evenly applied, to do the whole length of the blade. The worst...

Two methods that have worked for me. 1. Squeeze teeth in vice jaws. Make sure the jaws are smooth and hard. Cast iron probably isn't hard enough - ideally, it needs to be harder than the saw blade. You don't need the paper, the springback (elasticity) in the metal will leave some set both...

Very roughly, there are two main duties - bench planes and joinery (or specialist) planes. Bench planes are for the roughing down of sawn boards, truing them up flat and square, and smoothing off. Short ones tend to be smoothing planes, very long ones try and jointer planes (for truing up) and...