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Apologies, just4fun, I completely misunderstood your description - I thought you were saying the blade was much narrower than the bed of the plane. It's obviously the "right" size, so forget my ramblings about the wedge over-hanging the edges of the blade! From my (very) limited experience of...

The only plane that I know of that takes blades substantially narrower than the body is a plouggh plane & I very much doubt your plane is intended for that purpose! So applying Occum's razor, my first guess is that someone has simply used a blade intended for a narrower plane? Assuming it's an...

No worries, Vann. Actually, I meant Falcon-Pope to imply the continuation of Falcon, & I forgot to add Carter as the 3rd maker due to a temporary brain-fade, so your clarification is welcome. :) The history of the Australian plane makers is a subject in its own right as shown by a few posts on...

May I politely suggest that that may be because you did not frame the question quite so clearly? :) The threads used for various screws by various plane manufacturers could fill a small book! Stanley USA has probably been the most consistent, the only 'problem' being their choice of what are...

True, there is nothing "special" about the threads Stanley chose for their planes, they are perfectly 'standard', just uncommon nowadays. LH taps & dies are almost always considerably more expensive than RH versions due to economy of scale, & only specialist suppliers carry the 32nd sizes...

Indeed, re-glueing is preferable if you want to preserve the original & the break is clean with a high proportion of contact area between the two pieces. Cleaning the surfaces to be glued is mandatory, of course. Not sure you gain much by using 98% alcohol, ordinary denatured alcohol as sold...

Stan, I'm not sure that's a good approach. Tapping a new thread in the base for the tote stud is a tricky business. You will need a bottoming tap to get even a couple of turns of good thread in the shallow hole. Starting those on-course is quite difficult, even for the experienced, the usual...

I spent many years making mortises with all sorts of chisels, starting with B.E. chisels, the only type of chisel I owned in my first dozen years of woodworking & really not the best tool for the job by a long shot! My tenons always required 4 shoulders to hide the pinch marks from the backs of...

Not a tool I'm familiar with myself, but it looks like the lever cap on the newish plane is a ring-in. The toe of its LC is tapered & much narrower than the one on the old plane (??). This may not matter in a lot of situations, but it could allow some chatter of the corners in some instances...

It's not 3/16" on any Stanley of that vintage, it's 7/32". You might get a thread on a 3/16 rod to hold, but it'll be rather wobbly, I suspect. As for the pitch, it's 20 tpi and yes NC form, not BSW, but you can interchange them on a loose fit. What you really need is a "12-20" tap. These...

Adam, I have several Liogier "plain" rasps & a couple of the "saphires". AFAIK, it's a coating, not case-hardening, but I am prepared to be corrected if that's not the case. In terms of wear resistance (which is the claimed advantage of the 'saphire' range), it's too hard to call for an...

This is my solution. I need to store tools in drawers or cupboards to avoid rust in my moist sub-tropical climate: The containers are slide-in boxes faced with 3mm ply. Inside I've laid lengths of scrap plastic electrical conduit side-by side to keep the blades separated. You can't see...

As Tom said, 1095 or its equivalent should be fine, I've used quite a lot of 1095 with no problems. It's not simply the alloy per se that matters, the level to which it's tempered to after hardening is the important factor. If 1095 is in the 48-50 HRC range, it will be pretty much bang-on the...

Split nuts with the slots sanded off is a pretty common problem. Best to leave them alone if they don't need tightening, or you don't really need to remove the handle. If you must get them off, the best way I've found is to grind a smaller-sized nail punch to a chisel point. You can usually...

By "up" I mean away from the tooth line - as deema said, it's often knocked down so the blade is deeper in the spine at the front. This is so common on old saws you may think it's meant to be that way, but I think it's just the result of knocks & bumps. Tapping or re-fitting the spine will...

I've seen various articles, but for the life of me could not remember where. The first step is to try & identify the source of the problem. The most obvious fault is a bent spine (moderately common) which is usually easy enough to straighten but proceed carefully, the last thing you want is to...

I don't think you're mad a'tall Luke - I'm all for resurrecting old tools where possible - the spine & bolts for a backsaw are the most difficult parts to make or obtain if you don't have the gear, so well worth preserving for a second life . I wasn't casting any aspersions, just got confused...

I thought it was probably just a slip - I do it myself often enough! :)

Luke, I thought you said the saw in question was 14 inches? Unless your ruler has been shrunk, it looks to be more like 10 inches (~250mm) or is the skewed pic really throwing me off? Judging by the position & cant of the handle, I would reckon the saw isn't all that much reduced from...

???? Have you confused your ups & downs tyreman? Cap-irons are only used on "bevel down" plane blades - they would serve no purpose on a BU blade other than to stiffen it, but that's more simply achieved by having a thick blade. :) Cheers,