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Hope the damage isn't too bad. Have a look up about chainsaw milling. You need to keep the pieces relatively long, but if they are at home, at least you won't have to worry about moving them. Getting a big enough saw is either expensive, or means taking a risk on second hand. Cheap chinese...

Really interested to hear these suggestions. Don't know why all mitre saws aren't like this. I have an evolution that has been ok but a bit crude and takes up loads of space. Looking for something a lot more compact.

Sweet chestnut? Timber ought to be like a paler version of oak, and incredibly full of tannin.

Thank you both. I thought I was ordering a large amount, but maybe 60m2 isn't that much in the grand scheme of things!

Do you have any recommendations for good places to get shiplap cladding? Most places I have seen either just offer feather edge or charge a lot more than that. I am looking to buy a fair amount soon so any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!

I think the insides of magic corner cupboards are universal, so you can save those expensive bits and put them in the new one. We bought the mechanism part for one cheaply second hand and put it in a normal cupboard fine. Sounds as if the units have had it though. Have you considered a second...

Depends how soft it is. I would just crack on for now. People worry about the dust, but you should be wearing a mask anyhow and that is plenty of protection. If when you have it mostly shaped you are finding it difficult to get a clean cut, some wet rot hardener can work wonders to make it a bit...

Wetter the better. Get it roughed out before it has a chance to crack. If you loose some of the bulk, often the movement just causes it to warp rather than split.

I would be surprised if you can dry bowl blank sizes pieces without splitting. I would go for the 2 stage turning approach and get them roughed out ASAP. Beautiful timber though, so worth the high splitting rate

I once tried using a freeze dryer on some slices that were to become coasters. While it was fairly quick, they didn't crack and less than just leaving them in the open. Painting with wet rot hardener did help quite a lot though.

That is very impressive, but it has a fair bit of support. I was astonished at the 9m span without any supporting framework.

Very reassuring. Does your roof have rafters though? I am hoping to avoid them and just have a ridge beam and run the panels between that and the walls. I can see purlins would make sense with a conventional roof, but building all the rest seems excessive just for fitting lighting to.

9m in a single span is scary...

Cannot see prices on their website, but will call them tomorrow. Getting custom lengths sounds good otherwise I will end up wasting a lot. Wondering now, is there any downside? Are they making all other roofing obsolete for sheds / workshops ?

Hoping to get away with 80, but good to know the thicker ones are more than capable of spanning the gap. Prospect of a quick and simple roof is incredibly tempting!

Interesting. I have just tried their roof calculator and it seems to be giving nonsense. Giving the per m2 price for each panel as opposed to the total cost. Did you get a proper quote or did you use this? Also, are you using a standard panel length, or getting them custom sized? They seem more...

Wow - that is reassuring! Where did you get yours from? I am rebuilding from existing foundations so it is a bit of an odd set up. I have an area 6.7 x 6m and I was trying to avoid a traditional roof with full rafters etc. I am resigned to 1 post in the middle to support a big ridge beam...

I posted on here about rebuilding a shed asking about roofing options and someone suggested structural insulated panels. They look great. I was wondering what experience people had with them and where was best to buy from? In particular what is the maximum span that is safe? The specifications...

I think having had a shed with retro fitted insulation for a workshop and seen the difference, I would never want one completely without. Cold I don't mine, everything going rusty is just such a pain. There is no plan for living in there or the like, bit I agree that future proofing as much as...

I would imagine it could look very interesting, but will be fibrous and difficult to cut. I think palm is like banksia and the grain goes the other way to what you are expecting - all the cuts are in reverse. If it proves impossible, but pretty you could always try some resin to set it?