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I agree. Definitely looks like a fair amount of rot as well as the break. Pretty sure snapping good timber won't leave nearly as intricate and pretty a break pattern as that.

Interesting. I think we have both read the question in completely different ways. I am trying to snap the piece across the grain, you along it! Must admit I can't quite picture why the original poster wants to do either, so would be keen to see a drawing of the planned lamp!

That is going to take some doing, especially without making it look obviously contrived. I think the drill marks risk being quite obvious afterwards. How about a hydraulic car jack? I think you may be disappointed by how a real break looks. Have you considered cutting it into say 16 1 inch x...

I think pine is going to make you life very difficult. I would suggest something much more close grained. Lime will be easy to carve and takes detail well, but is soft so not very tough. Apart from that, it would depend on the look and if you wanted native or were prepared to use tropical...

I had been trying to avoid persuading myself I needed something fancy! I take it you are a fan then? Never used anything Festool, but I know how amazing it felt to upgrade from a cheap lathe to a decent one. I guess it must be the same - maybe I need to get saving... Do you mind if I ask where...

The larger saw would be nice, but there always have to be compromises. The front sliding aspect is essential, and that seems to pretty much rule out my usual option of buying second hand.

I know this topic comes up a lot. They seem a brilliant option for smaller workshops, but the choice is limited. It would appear 2 distinct price points (though I don't quite understand how the DeWalt 774 fits in with regards to features). My looking up suggests at the cheaper end: Hyundai...

I have done this for the base of table legs that were going to be outside. No idea if it was needed, or worth the effort. Simply painted the bottom 10 cm with whatever 2 part epoxy I had to hand. One time it was a relatively thick surfacing epoxy, the other a thinner casting one. Did this before...

Heating may be nice for a workshop (though I find just running machines or working in there warms it up fine) but seems crazy for storage. Do people on here really run heating continuously for storage sheds? I feel working out how to prevent the damp is far more worthwhile, even if it costs a...

I find it is works best in a corded drill - my battery one is a bit slow and feeble and weirdly doesn't seem to leave as neat a finish.

I quite like one of those nylon bristle wheels in a drill to tidy up after taking off bark. Gets rid of all the annoying cambium really quickly without damaging actual wood. https://www.toolstation.com/abracs-nylon-filament-wheel-brush/p42759

I think it is because the air and the structure change temperature at different rates. It warms up during the day and there is moisture in the air. When it is night time, the walls and roof get very cold (think how cars frost when the air is above zero). This causes the water to condense and...

Plenty of unusual options for heating, just they tend to have significant disadvantages. Could go for the Victorian greenhouse approach and use a huge pile of decomposing manure? Apparently that can keep the frost of a large glasshouse!

Insulation? I put 2 layer of that silver bubble wrap (walls and ceiling) and then screwed 6mm ply over the top for the shed I use as my workshop and it made a huge difference. Improvement to warmth when in there is nice, but the big one was the decrease in damp. Everything used to go rusty, now...

What decision did you make in the end? I am having a similar dilemma currently (though not as a present!)

Once you have it dry it is lovely. Close grained and with some superb colouring. I have found it quite prone to cracking and warping when drying. Seemed like a more exaggerated version of cherry!

It can be an expensive hobby, but needn't be too bad. Some corners cannot be cut though. Low tech, old and rusty can be fine, but run a mile from anything that looks like this: Machines with thin pressed steel bars are just too floppy to ever be satisfactory. Also, go for a few good...

I always suggest that people look at swivel head machines. They mean you get extra capacity without having to take up too much space. I used to have an axminster m900 which was brilliant. Very simple, mechanical variable speed drive, and cheap. 12 inch swing over the bed, up to 18 with the head...

Cannot help with regulations, but the panels are pretty easy to handle. The full 7.5m were a pain, but when cut these went up in no time. Just over 4m, about 3m from the front to the ridge beam.

Just seen you are in Reading. Do you have a mill? If not, I can bring my saw and mill and we could have a go at processing some if you wanted? What is the maximum diameter?