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Thanks! We will have plenty of lifters, just need the luck to go with it. No money for a replacement granite piece - option 1 is not break it, option 2 epoxy the bits back together, option 3 a piece of painted OSB until we can find a chunk of laminate second hand. I crossing my fingers for...

It is frustrating - kitchen is a slightly odd shape and this one is almost a perfect fit. I will post a picture of the end result when we go for in in a month or two. If the worktop is OSB, you will know it all went horribly wrong!

I think it looks pretty good. You can cheat to avoid that though. If you use a paper joint, you can glue on sacrificial strips to protect the edges. Once finished, use a stanley knife to score along the join, and crack the scrap off. Bit of flat sanding to clean off the glue. Also makes it...

I wish we could, but the budget wont allow it. Even doing everything ourselves it is going to be tight!

That sounds a brilliant idea. On the outside of the worktop, not the inside of the hole?

It is not so much the carrying as the unsticking that I am worried about. We will be doing all moving vertical. I have seen various videos about using wedges to lever the counter up and break the seals. It feels like this is going to put quite a strain on them (especially the narrow bits by the...

I hope that as my motivation for the tops remaining intact is higher, the odds of them doing so are better if I do it myself!

We are replacing our kitchen and rather than pay the insane prices for new ones have bought a second hand one on eBay. It has some quite large granite worktops that I am not looking forwards to moving. Does anybody have any tips for getting them out without breaking them, or clever ways of...

It is very odd. I have had a problem with a very small batch and assumed it was that it was a ratio problem, but if it is multiple ones it does sound as if you may have a bad batch. If you just want a different product that is reliable, I have found the glasscast range brilliant. Glasscast 50...

You appear to be comparing 2 very different products. One is a deep pour casting resin, the other a viscous coating epoxy. What are you trying to achieve? Deep pour resins are very slow, but after a week it should have set, even if it is not fully hard. Are you sure you got the mixture right...

How punky is it? Looks as if it might have some slightly soft patches? End grain like that can be a bit unforgiving for finishes if there are any areas that are not completely solid. I had a couple of smaller pieces of spalted horse chestnut that I painted thinned epoxy on to soak in and...

What are the dimensions please? I have a table saw with an annoyingly narrow 15mm track. Thanks, Alex

Some shelves from a field maple that came down in the storms last year and I milled. Punky areas stabilised with some thinned epoxy, black epoxy to fill voids. Hard wax oil to finish

Whatever wood you use you will have to have a completely waterproof covering on it. I used Osmo Polyx on some pieces of woodwork in the bathroom recently. Worked really well for a sink countertop and windowsill, but did not do too well with a shelf at the end of the shower / bath that ended up...

What resin are you using? Something that can be used to fill cracks and will set in an hour or sounds pretty useful. The casting resins are great for filling small gaps - if the resin part if warm before mixing I think they get into almost anything without pressure, but are a right faff for...

Definitely not. If you use a casting resin such as glasscast it will fill voids fine without and special pressure / vacuum equipment. There are 3 types depending on the depth you want to fill, with different speed hardeners. 50 is the slowest and will allow pours of up to 50mm in one go. If...

I am sure you would get used to them, but they don't look the most useful of shapes either for spindle work or bowls. The biggest spindle gouge would probably do as a roughing gouge, but is not the usual shape. I am not sure if I would trust any of the gouges for making bowls, and I am not...

Fingernail is more versatile than a traditional grind, but harder to sharpen without a guide. I sharpen freehand and so have to go for a bit of a compromise - wings slightly ground back, but not the full fingernail. As with other posters I use the 3/8 for pretty much everything on bowls under...

Your lathe will cope with quite big pieces, but don't leap in immediately with something massive as it can get quite scary. Until recently I had the size down from it in Axminster colours and rough turned this on it with the head swiveled. Done with a 3" faceplate and 55mm jaws, but I would...

The supernova will be plenty big enough. I have one and it is quite chunky. I also think the 50mm jaws are a good size to start with. You can hold little bowls on compression mode and medium in expansion. Should cope with the 12" that your lathe can manage over the bed fine.