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Hi everyone As the title suggests, how do you add a small (approx 3mm) chamfer to mdf boards. I use a chamfer cutter in my 1/4 router but I’ve seen some use a block plane. What method do you use? How do you maintain the 45 degree angle if using a plane? With some sort of jig? Or just plenty of...

Thanks guys. I maybe didn’t explain myself very well. The reason for the battens on the wall was just to make sure the mdf would sit straight (don’t necessarily need the opening to be exactly square). My thoughts were it would be much easier to fit battens to the wall and get them all plumb and...

Hi everyone I’ve been asked by a customer to mdf board around this opening and install a moulding both sides to match the mouldings around existing door frames. If you were going to do this, would you fix battons onto the walls and ceiling first to get it nice and square for the mdf to attach...

Hi all, I’m just wondering how you go about fixing skirting boards to solid walls. I’ve always used rawl plugs and screws which is a painfully slow process, is there an easier way? Would a 16 gauge nailer attach the skirting to a solid wall (brickwork/blockwork)? Cheers Pete

Yes you can. It’s a lot quicker than using a standard combi drill and you can also screw 3 or 4” 5/6mm screws into really hard wood without any issues . They put a hell of a lot of torque through the screws. My Makita impact driver has an adjustable torque on it which is useful if you don’t need...

Even for a first attempt that looks bloody brilliant, well done!!

I’d go with 18mm osb then. You might Consider loft legs so any insulation doesn’t get squashed.

Hi Stuart no reason I can think of. Will you actually be walking on the sheets or will access just be from the ladder and hatch? You might get away with 12mm then which would be cheaper and lighter.

Hi I’ve owned a couple of erbauer tools over the years and my personal experience is that they’ve been poor quality so I would personally rule out an erbauer mitre saw. I also owned the Bosch gcm8 and whilst it was reasonable for the money, I found the materials were really low quality, such as...

Hi there I’d consider having the tongue and groove running vertically to avoid risk of any water sitting in the grooves. I’d also think about having the frame so that you’ve got 2 diagonal braces running in opposite directions to each other to avoid twisting of the frame. I’d also look at...

Hi again Williams I set the depth collar up so that the bit just made it through the thickness of the mdf and it worked a treat. Thanks very much!

Thanks Williams. I have the depth collar but didn’t set it up precisely so that the bit just passes through the full depth I just had it set so the bit doesn’t slam into the floor as the instructions suggest but I’ll try as you suggest on a bit of scrap to see if it makes any difference. Dunno...

Sorry should have said. 18mm MRMDF

Hi all, I’m currently making an mft table top for my track saw using the parf guide system. Problem is the instructions say not to have anything underneath the table top when cutting the 20mm holes with the forstner type cutter. This is resulting in breakout on the underside of the mft top. My...

Hi everyone, not sure if it’s still for sale or not but thought I’d mention it. There’s a cracking little Inca bandsaw for sale for £35 on Facebook marketplace. See details on photos below. Hope it’s still available for one of you!!

Hi cows, that stand looks absolutely ideal for what I’m after. If it’s not too much trouble are you able to take a few more photos for me so I can see how it’s made? Many thanks

Thanks Brian for taking the time to draw that for me. It’s really helpful, thanks.

Hi Jacob that looks ideal. Are the aprons mortise and tenoned into the legs?

Thanks all. Timber will be a little under 2 3/4” x 1 3/4”. Brian would it be possible for you to send me a sketch? I can’t picture the method you describe. Cheers Pete

Hi everyone If you were making a small stand for a small bandsaw how would you go about making a frame for it? I was thinking mortise and tenon joints at the top of the legs (for worktop to bolt onto) and close to the bottom of the legs to prevent any racking and to allow a shelf to be fitted...