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I've used this and I'm pleased with the results but I don't know how to stop it from going hard once opened. It's normally only the surface in the bottle, the glue beneath stays liquid and useable for months but any advice out there to stop the surface going hard would be appreciated.

I didn't think of that one. Good call.

I'm assuming that the curve/shape of what you want to fill may make it difficult to dam as suggested by ChaiLatte and what I would also have suggested but I have been in situations where I have had to make a large dam and mix a larger amount of resin than required to fill the crack because of...

You're welcome

I have a piece ready cut 45mm x 60mm but also have another 15mmx55mm which of you wished you could glue them together for free. Otherwise I would have to cut from a larger piece but would cost £30 + P&P.

I often use coffee granules as a filler too especially as a resin filler.

Just came across this video. I don't follow this young man but he seems a very enthusiastic chap. Anyway, an interesting video of a Sheffield-based saw-making company Thomas-Flynn Co.

I can send you some more ebony. Do you know what size you need?

Another here for Indian ink but also consider good quality printer ink refill. Wear gloves because meths, isopropyl or acetone won't get it off,

Can't wait to use that one in a conversation.

Two coats of thinned UF glue. I use it when it's past it's best.

I think I get the gist of what you're describing but looking forward to photos because this sounds like a better solution for one of my clamps. I must have 30 odd f-clamps but only one that slips. Just lucky I suppose.

Another here for powder pigments. You can add the dyes to a little alcohol to dissolve first then add it to the mix with a dropper or pipette. This helps control how light or dark you want the finish to be. Some powders can be tricky to gauge. The leather dyes are also a good idea as suggested...

I know it's not always possible or convenient but, I try to leave the squeeze-out until it has slightly gone off, rubbery, and then shave it off with a chisel/blade. Edit: Sorry, just read Chubber's comment above.

Same here but I would have to add UF glue for outdoor use rather than PVA and stale UF for sealing edges of manmade boards if required.

I don't know why. But, I can't remember the last time I flattened one. The water stones often need flattening. Almost each time you use them. That's why they never come out of the drawer. There must be occasions to flatten them but I can't think of one. Maybe it's because I strop more than...

Oil stones for me. They won't need flattening. I still have the one my late, carpenter big brother handed down to me in 1981 (yes I can be that specific to the year). It has a coarse side and a medium side and is still in the wooden box he made. I only use the course side these days because I...