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Thanks for the explanation and the link. I did feel that this was a well worn path others had trod and I was in danger of trying to "reinvent the wheel", so to speak. A sensible (and obvious) reply, so I feel a bit more information would help.:) This is an experiment to test out a swage block...

I'm making a series of ferrules in brass out of a piece of flat 1mm sheet. I am bending them around a 16mm ground, silver steel, rod. A simple question arises from this : what length should the brass be? Pi X 16mm gives me a circumference of, 50.272mm, which is initially what I cut the length...

Yes, I'm afraid I've already been sucked down that particular rabbit hole. I've come across David Daye's website and plans .but until now wasn't able to track down a source of telescopic tubing. However, I'm determined to crack whistle making first before changing tack. :) Niall

This sort of thing can easily happen when things are done ad hoc. Which is why building sites have site agents, to ensure that the each trade carries out their task properly, and doesn't snooker the one to follow. Otherwise, things can start to get expensive very quickly. The only options I can...

Hi there, Bob. It's good you managed to get an acceptable result with your cutter. Funnily enough the sheer cutter you show in the photo was going to be the next one I experimented with to try and achieve that final finishing cut for my whistles. I've recently been trying to sharpen an HSS...

I used to find that, rather strangely, this would happen if the blades were not sharp. Otherwise, it could be that the surface of infeed table is not parallel with the outfeed table. The only other thing could be that the top of the knifes have been set a tad higher than the outfeed table

This is a very sensible and logical approach. Trouble is logic and common sense are often absent when one is aquiring tools.:)

Following are a couple of pics. One of the cutter and holder I put together and the other of it being used to turn the outside of an African Blackwood tube, fixed to a mandrel on my lathe. I experimented a bit with trying to get the bevel rubbing against the wood by bringing the top end of the...

I think that @Ed Weber has it covered here. I seem to remember, that Trend used to sell a set of templates for routing decorative flourishes. If I'm remembering correctly, the heart of this system involved a pointed router cutter surrounded by a cone shaped bearing. This arrangement allowed...

As has been said by @jonn , these type of inserts for non-ferrous metals are really good for turning wood, Your tool shows the cutter presented horizontally, If you are after a good finish on say the outside of a cylinder it is often better to use a "round", or "rounded square cutter", and to...

But, what is it ? - It's a "Thing ummy bob." Well, to be more precise, it's a wooden swage block, that I hope will allow me to bend silver into a tube, so I can make a sterling silver ferrule. I will definitely have to practise on some 1mm brass sheet first to see if it works. I mean, what...

My goodness - a blast from the past. I used to have one of those - back in the 70's I think. It always reminded me of a kazoo.

I've used scrapers made from files and as long as the overhang from the tool rest is small then they work just fine. One wouldn't use a file as a lever so keeping this gap to a minimum. prevents it becoming one. Whether I would be happy if all my lathe tools were old files is another matter...

As others have said, if it's gaps that you can't live with, where the boards have shrunk , then its is a matter of gluing long wedge profiled strips of wood to one side of the board only. These are then are planed flush. If it is simply holes on the surface then a range of two -part fillers...

Try searching journeymans-workshop.uk/unified.php

Well spotted that man.......... I noted the size down wrongly. The smaller one is in fact 3-48. And from the charts I've just looked at 10-32 seems to be UNF.

Now that is interesting. Will one still be able to get the LED units that plug directly into ones fluorescent fittings? as I was thinking of getting these instead of the usual tubes. On a related note .... my wife has just got hold of a LED panel, from her mother who couldn't get on with it...

Thanks for the link. I've been through a lot of these on Ebay. And they all seem remarkably coy about what the actual thread size of their screws is. I think I have come to the conclusion that they are most likely to be M3. Whiteside cutters list the three sizes of their screws as 3-30, 5-40...

Thanks for taking the time to reply. However, having just reread what I wrote I fear you have gone off at a bit of a tangent, by misinterpreting what I said. :) I was interested in your comments on the Metric Standard regarding the half sizes. I have to admit that this isn't something I have...

Following on from my original question the M3 Allen screws arrived in the post today, I tried one out for fit and it went in part way. I used a 3mm tap to recut the hole thread and it then went in all the way . This will suit me just fine as I am not using the cutter in a router, so no chance...