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With Spanner 48. This is a very common sort of damage on clocks. Last thing you want is to be scraping the glue off, as that will seriously detract from your chances of getting a really neat join. Try and dissolve it, acetone is usually good but you may need to experiment. The big blotches on...

The smell always reminds me of my dad. Even when he got to a position where he had no real need to get hands on the machines he couldn't resist it. Talking to some of those who worked for him one thing that came across loud and clear was the respect they had for someone who might be...

Can't recall his name now but there are a number of good you tube videos from an American gent who has made various Arduino based stuff on an old South Bend, auto screwcutting and the like. Very interesting.

I went as far as buying an Arduino, and a dummies guide. Have never found the time to actually have a play with it, so would be interested in that. if you go to vintagemachinery.org they have a free to download three way manual covering the 5, 5A and 140. Worth downloading as it includes details...

One thing you want to pay very close attention to is the Norton gearbox. Not a design highpoint on Harrison's part, and can cause you a lot of problems if not set up correctly. Common problems are that the knob detents wear so the selectors aren't positioned correctly. Worth spending some time...

Maybe a bit OTT but on mine I have run the coolant pump from its own small VFD. It's controlled via a paddle on off switch and pot mounted in a metal project box on the splash back, so I can vary the speed of the pump and amount of coolant via the pot. Easy enough as my machine is quite a bit...

Nice old one you have there. The channels on mine are 125x65 and extend back to just behind the coolant sump/motor. The feet are scaffold legs cut down and mounted into short lengths of pole welded to steel plates. The foot plates sit on squares of 4mm thick synthetic rubber, sold for making...

I am assuming the shed is second hand? Looking at your drawing I would guess that it would have originally had some kind of seal fitted into the central void in the base piece. If there is a manufacturers name on it anywhere then maybe ask them, they might be able to supply it. Or contact...

Not dissimilar to how I have always done the joint between shed walls and base, although having the wall flush with the base makes life much easier. The DPC roll you can get for walls is cheap and would be flexible enough. I think John is right though, you are going to have to lift it to do a...

Out of interest what provision does the manufacturer make for a seal between the building and the base, presumably there must be something?

Have to say my experience has been very different. On my one the table is very flat, not actually measured it but not a *** paper width of gap past a straight edge in any direction. Only criticism I would have is that the finish on the table is a little coarse. When I get time I may well attend...

Ok fair enough. One thing that occurs to me is that if you can lift a wall at a time then could you fit some closed cell double sided foam tape under it, the sort of stuff that is used for sticking trim on cars. It comes in various thicknesses. If the gap is small then it will get squashed...

Have fun

I'm guessing that the designers envisaged the edge of the galvanized section hanging over the edge of the base. By putting a shelf under it you are inviting water to puddle on top of the white plastic, and then find it's way underneath the wall. Is there any reason it had to be done that way?

Wait till you see the spanner :-)

Got to say, having used both, the Katsu one is pretty much identical to the basic Proxxon, and a lot cheaper. The more expensive Proxxon one has the mitre slot table and vice option, although I think the actual drill is the same? Their stuff is good, but massively overpriced IMO.

Grit or bead blasting is really the only way to get right into the pits if you don't want to use chemicals. Or maybe from where you are now use a strong citric acid solution and just brush it on? Never tried it but might work. Bead/grit definitely the best as leaves no chemical residue to wash...

Good reading in many old engineering books, in the days when parts were expensive and labour relatively cheap. There are still companies about who do metal spraying, electro deposition and the various other techniques, all very expensive nowadays. Practically speaking I would have thought the...

Lovely old machine, wish I had room.

Judging by the very similar verbose posts I wonder if he and Hypnotic Chimera are one and the same. Anyone seen them in the same place at the same time ? :-)