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That Makita looks to be the equivalent of a Festool Rotex i.e. it combines a regular random orbital mechanism with a gear-driven mode for more aggressive sanding, or polishing with the appropriate pad. The Metabo is simply a dual-orbit ROS i.e. it can be switched between (from memory) 3mm and...

Unless you're going for decent Birch ply, IME getting a good painted edge on plywood is a lot more effort than on MDF. Actually, even with Birch ply it isn't straightforward :/

From memory, structural ply conforms to the relevant BS code, non structural doesn't - not sure what the practical differences are though. I'd go for birch ply over either, personally. If the beds are to be painted, why not use MR MDF? Cheers, Peter (Edited for spelling)

Sounds reasonable to me - though a picture or link would help; as mentioned above, if you think it's easy money, what's stopping you from doing it? Or maybe you should just get out and about a bit more, big wide world out there full of people who aren't like you. Or me ;) Cheers, Pete (edited...

TuffStuff Extreme for me.

I think the OP was asking specifically about kitchen and wardrobe doors, carcasses and face-frames, as he was considering subbing for someone who uses a Domino extensively. This thread seems to have wandered off into a 2009-era throwback about wether the Domino can replace every method of...

What is there to think about? For kitchen and wardrobe carcasses, doors and face-frames, Domino, all day long. No, it isn't the magic bullet for all your joinery needs, but as others have said, it wasn't intended to be. Buy one, try it out and if you don't get along with it, return it within 14...

Biggest improvement I made to my small workshop was to ditch my radial arm saw for an MFT; if your RAS isn't essential to your workflow, I'd strongly suggest you consider this - it's amazing how much space they take up. Cheers, Pete

Very sorry to hear about your Dad; I lost my Mum last week after a brief period of illness - she was 92 so hardly unexpected, but still a bit of a choker when it happens. Had her funeral last Friday, and afterwards had one of the best family parties I can remember; hope you managed to give your...

You can get the Festool systainer and insert here and you can get the plain insert separately if you already have a spare systainer. I had one and didn't get along with it at all - it's designed to house a slightly odd (to me) range of German hand-tools, so not really suitable for what I needed...

Very nice, as always. Are the doors unusually heavy - you seem to have a lot of hinges on each side :? Pete

Did it in the week, no worries Pete

Very good Chris - though it looks *very* clean for something made last year - and great idea using the Dewalt stands too. Very hipster-ish shooting the video in portrait, btw ;) Pete

I took it to mean that he thought the sound wouldn't be continuous from one video clip to the next, after it's been edited i.e. the clips out of sync with each other, not the sound & picture out of sync in each clip - hence my comment re. recording an audio voiceover during the editing process...

Are you looking to edit on the iPad, or import the clips to your computer? iMovie for iPad isn't bad - very 'consumer-ey' though, based around the concept of 'projects' with 'themes', and you'll need a recent iPad to use it comfortably. Lots of tutorials online for iMovie, though. An alternative...

ETV, not sure why you're so anti the segmented blade - I've used both, and while they certainly have their uses, I found the straight carbide blades to be much more prone to chipping the tile edge, so needs to be used with care. +1 to the bleach idea though - HG do very good mould spray and...

Thanks for that; I'll have to try a few pairs and see. Funny, I always thought that screws would hold up better, though I use 3.5 x 16 - probably makes all the difference, lol! @ Stanleythecat: Yep, also available as cranked/inset hinges. Cheers, P

I like these; as Zeddedhed above, but with a conventional screw instead of 'Inserta' fixing. @Zeddedhed; just out of interest, do you use the EcoDrill jig or something else? TIA, Peter

I usually use 18mm for the carcass, 18 or 22mm for shelves, depending on width. Lipping them helps reduce sag. Full height doors? Usually 22mm rails and sties with either a 6mm or 9mm panel; 18mm is OK for the rails/stiles on small cabinet doors, but I wouldn't use it on a full-height door...

Yep, segmented carbide or diamond blade on a multi-tool does the job. Not fun though - I'd rather re-tile :/