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Very broadly, yes. In my test there was very little to choose between the 48 tooth Festool blade and the 24 tooth Titan in MDF and Plywood. In MFC the 24 tooth blade showed some very fine chipping, the 48 tooth was perfect. FWIW I started switching out the standard 48t Festool blade for their...

Sounds good. Ordinarily I'd always suggest ditching the stock blade that comes with a cheaper saw, but I was very surprised recently when I put a Titan (Screwfix) tracksaw against a Festool, ("Festool vs Cheap Tool") at how well the stock Titan blade cut, even with half the tooth count (24 vs...

Be aware that the Scheppach quotes the motor as 250W, the Aldi Workzone one is 350W. HTH P

Then you probably have the Ceros, not the Deros; Deros has everything in the body of the sander, like the ETS EC. Cheers, Peter

Rotex is a very different animal. The ETS EC 150/x is more like the Deros. I tried the Deros - fine sander, lightweight, low, great in the hand, but I didn't get on with the flappy paddle thing, so not for me. Also have had disturbing comments from guys whose opinions I respect and who've had...

Sure. Don't do this. Seriously, just don't. The cheapest, nastiest, fold-up portable table saw you could buy will be vastly better and, crucially, safer, than anything you can make by bolting a circular saw upside down. Yes, I've seen "experts" on YouTube do this (as an aside, you do realise...

Haven't used a lot of 25mm for doors, but that'd be tight. With 22mm I generally work to 4-5mm difference between the door widths (per pair) and the opening width, so ~1.5mm gap all round (1/16th" roughly) 2mm max. I'd be concerned about binding with 25mm and those clearances. Are they painted...

Hi Folks In an old ‘workflow’ thread of mine - here - the spreadsheet I used to calculate the carcasses etc.. generated some interest. I’ve recently sanitised this for public consumption and made this simple two-page workbook freely available via Google Sheets, entitled “Single cab.” here -...

I may have the wrong end of the stick here, but why must the MDF 'walls' be in a slot within the 2x2? Is there some reason why the walls can't be 6mm MR MDF sandwiched between lengths of 2x1 (glue & screws) and the booth simply formed by joining the corners? As mentioned above, I'm also...

Not sure what size hose it is, but I found a Rupes part # 107.502/C here when I was looking to do the same with a CTL Sys. Works well. If you were to have a dig around, some smart-alec made a video about it ages ago... ;) HTH Peter.

Sorry to hear - scumbags deserve to lose body parts for this. Hope your insurers (equal scumbags IMHO) don't make it a double crime. Cheers, Peter.

I bought one of these to take my son to uni (admittedly only ~80 miles) and it was absolutely fine. I added a few extra straps to hold it together, but other than the convoluted instructions, it was perfectly serviceable. Haven't used it since, mind... HTH, Pete

Not personally, no - just the full-width battens. Sorry, don't do many of these so no photos I can lay my hands on. The 'studding' i.e. threaded rod; is drilled into and bonded to the wall with resin anchor fixing, and the shelf is constructed in a way so it slides onto these. I like to nip...

If you can live with a slightly narrower table, how about 3# 2032 x 813 flush doors as the surface (flat and lightweight, £24 each from TP) on trestles/rails between trestles?

Ah, OK. In that case, over that span, I think I'd consider glueing in some steel angle / ally box section behind the front batten, if it were me. If it's an alcove shelf, then as above - batten the width of the back wall, short battens at the sides etc... If it's a heavier-duty floating shelf...

Is this a floating shelf or an alcove shelf? If the latter, then agree with Noel and Jacob, shorter battens running the depth of the shelf (front to back) would do little; full width (side to side) batten against the back wall, short battens at either end, and a full-width front batten attached...

Bought - being delivered Saturday for an extra 4 quid! Thanks!

Absolutey - that's almost a days parking ffs*. But the OP already has a ~£150-ish 18v cordless Makita and is looking for something more convenient/lighter/quieter/ less 'vibratory' so I am assuming (perhaps wrongly, happy to be corrected) that cost isn't the driving factor here. As I said, it's...

Seriously, it's fifteen quid - live a little. And if it disappoints, try returning it under the Lidl "non-faulty, non-foods specials items" returns policy. Just a thought. P

I use screws. Not really, Mike; I drive screws into MDF ’end grain’ every day - literally, every day - so when you say that this is ’doomed to failure’ it is *absolutely* a sweepimg statement that simply doesn't jibe with my daily work. Funnily enough, right now I’m looking at a ’temporary’ set...