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That looks solid! 💪 Where was the pivot/angle bracket(s) from? And presumably it locates on the t-track under the rail rib? Thanks! P 👍

Have a look at Dave Stanton's solution; he uses the standard Festool MFT hinge but locates it against a quad-dog in the front of the MFT using a tapered bracket. Very neat. This was the original plywood experimental version, he's done another in acrylic:- Re the MFT front pin wearing the...

I’ve had good results with a water-based flooring lacquer - easy to apply with a foam roller, dries fast, with a silky smooth finish that’s hard wearing. I like Junckers Strong, but I’m sure others will do the job just as well. With Birch ply I’ve always found the first coat of any finish to...

Just posted this in the other thread, worth repeating here I guess?? Festool MFT hinged rail/ rail support reference numbers are :- 497022 Support - this is the locating pin unit at the front of the MFT 497023 Support unit - this is the hinge part at the back of the MFT for the rail 472862...

You pays your money, makes your choice; as I say, Festool sell them as spare parts - I’ve bought the hinge mechanism (about £60) to see what needs doing to adapt it to regular t-track; it’s a slow process as the parts come from Germany - ordered on Jan 18th and just shipped this week - but if...

I have both; the table saw rarely gets used - very narrow rips and cutting wedges - and I may get rid of it before too long. But that’s down to the kind of work I do; I’d be curious to know why the OP wants to ditch his table saw??

I bought that Triton belt/bobbin sander when it was on special at Amazon and it’s OK as a bobbin sander, but pretty useless as a belt sander because there’s no plate behind the belt for the workpiece to bear against, or if there is one it’s set too far back. Either way, you can’t bring a...

Yes, dominos will be fine for that, well glued and clamped. But as others have said, 22mm MR at that span with no back support - I wouldn’t personally. Step it up to 25mm shelves, and add a solid timber lipping front and back, and you should be OK, but I’d test it first. Any particular reason...

Hang on, that’s the opposite of what you said when I asked that question further up the thread! 🤷‍♂️ Re. your video, as others have said you can’t rely on a measurement using the tape like that, you’d be better using a steel rule, and run it under the rail against the flagstop. As for starting a...

Not if the waste is to the right of the rail, you should be able to line up the mark against the splinterguard, and that’s where the cut-line will be.

When you say 1 or 2mm out, do you mean inconsistent ie between boards that should be identical, or 1 or 2mm different than what you were expecting? If it’s inconsistent, then there’s something else going on eg the workpiece moving, or the rail moving, or the saw not snugged onto the rail. With a...

Thanks for the update. The way I do it is to measure the width of cut on your workpiece, set the mark against the splinterguard, set the flagstop against the back edge of the work, and make my cuts. They’ll all be consistent. I’m sorry, but I don’t understand why you can’t trust your...

Hey Raf. Lots of ways to do this, and rather than second-guess with lots of ifs, buts and maybes, can I ask if you're actually using an MFT with fence, flagstops etc..., or just an MFT top with eg rail dogs or tall Benchdogs, or no MFT top and just a rail square, or Just the saw and rail? Thanks! P

There’s a much more up to date version of parallel guides in my Tracksaw Workshop series - playlist here Before I made them I used a pair of sliding squares against the splinter-guard, which worked fine. At the risk of stating the obvious, if it’s not accurate enough to use a a guide, it’s not...

Trade Hinges do a ‘trade pack’ of 50 hinges BTW, pretty good value. And yes, I’d also use 4 hinges per door, if only to keep everything aligned over that height. 👍

To be clear, I meant it's slow in comparison to the Ryobi Air Strike stapler that I have, and compared with the 16g air nailer I used to have. 👍

I have the Ryobi 16g Air Strike nailer and don’t like it at all - big, heavy, slow, clunky and generally awkward to use. If you can live with 18g then you have a lot more choice; the Ryobi 18g nailer is supposed to be much better, much more like their narrow crown stapler which I have and rate...

Thanks! I messed my first one up after a particularly heavy spraying session, but was able to buy a replacement sensor and swap it out - video about that here 👍👍

Bought mine used Doug - I’ll check the deets when I’m back in the workshop, thanks! 👍

Woah! I'll have to check mine; thanks for the heads-up...