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I've been watching a few of his - you're right. solid down to earth craft...

definitely. I used to do a fair bit of sign carving (until a bloke with a laser machine started eating my lunch) but no way am I letting go of these

I get the feeling that they don't need to be anywhere near as sharp as my usual chisels and gouges. thanks for confirming this

outdated? I need to sharpen quickly. a few strokes on a 2000 grit diamond stone, a finer arkansas and a strop takes a minute... a few times a year the primary bevel gets a regrind on a 160 grit and then a 400. a machine would take longer

I've got all the sharpening kit I need - and I only use a grinder to restore badly damaged edges. tormek-style machines take far too long compared to sharpening by hand

the lathe sits directly above my (well used) sharpening station. I'm a stickler for sharp tools I've got a face shield already as I regularly use nylon brushes on drills / angle grinders... I like my eyes!

the chap had let them slide a fair bit, and I've seen gouges sharpened in different ways - just wanted to get some advice

the first step is to cut a straight edge. you can do this with a circular saw and a straight batten - maybe the edge of a sheet of MDF? Clamp it in such a way that the edge of the foot plate of the circular saw runs along it and make the cut as for the second square cut: it's good to have a...

I'm counting on that, but as things stand I don't have the workshop space for something better - and this is just for fun

I've recently acquired some turning tools (Ashley Iles, mostly) which need a bit of tlc. I'm a beginner at turning so any advice about sharpening them to the best angles would be appreciated

I think this one looks very nice - the alternating joins work well

hi - I've acquired a functioning lathe for the very good price of £50 - it's nothing special but it works. I have the turning tools, centres, faceplates etc too what tips/advice would you give a beginner? I've got loads of wood available and I particularly like the idea of using wood that's...

quarter-sawn... any movement will be minimal

I've done this sort of thing several times before and it's never been a problem. however, I find that the tropical hardwoods don't move much in the first place, and the oak and ash is mostly attached with the grain running horisontally rather than vertically, if you get the idea. I don't expect...

believe me, the grain on this was a nightmare. I know how to fettle, tune and use a plane, btw. the no 80 isn't hard to use if you've got the iron set up and in this case it was the tool for the job

I saved a crappy coffee table from the tip. the top was thin glass which was scratched and the carcass (about 50mm square oak) was stained sepia and lacquered I stripped off the sepia stain from the outsides of the legs but left it on the insides. next step was to raid my scraps shelves (I'm a...

the customer specified danish oil as they want a shiny surface. I buff the surface between coats with pine shavings - they have just the right abrasion to take off the nibs and any specks of dust

definitely. it's a good bit of kit which, set up properly, does a good job I'm very happy with mine, but one thing to be aware of is that it's got wear blocks instead of roller bearings. you can get a replacement kit with rollers - mine cost about £75 a couple of years ago - which improves the...

this is very common - the wood has shrunk and there's a lot of pressure where the screw seats at the top of the stud. all you need to do is file a few mm off the end of the stud that goes through the handle and tighten

you don't need to modify the tailstock. all you need to do it make a jig that attaches to the toolrest with a hole big enough for the shank of your 'boring spoon' (essentially a bar with a 'spoon bit' on the end) you don't say how big or deep the hole needs to be... anyway, your mileage may...