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Team, This is a sideboard/cabinety thing for a family member. Main cabinetry is 20mm solid ash, will be through or half-blind dovetails on joint between the end panels and top/bottom, through tenons for the vertical dividers and plain housing or tapered dovetail for the horizontal divider. I...

Ah, gotcha now. The pusher rod is for pushing the mitre gauge on a static table. When used with a sliding table, the short rod attaches to the table and the whole caboodle is pushed. Sorry, but I don't have any other parts. If anyone wants this, I'll send it if they pay for postage.

I think you've sleuthed it, although I'm still struggling to see how it works or what it's used for?

Those are the flipover length stops. They have a U-shaped housing that slides over the rectangular bar on the rear of the crosscut fence. I think Andy (toolsntat) above has nailed it

I'm well know around these parts for my accomplished side-fumbling

I seem to remember that the colour was very similar to the Startrite table saw, and the milling on the T-piece knob feels like the threaded knobs on the end of the sliding table bars. I couldn't figure out anywhere it would fit. The table had a plain (not T) slot. The sliding table had a length...

I'm not sure, but I don't think so. I think the T-slot is a clue. I did have a Wadkin spindle moulder and a AGS10 at the same time. Maybe it is related to that?

At one stage I did have a Startrite TS175 with sliding table, but I don't recall it having a function that required something like this. Hmm.

I've had this kicking around for years. I don't know what it's from,but it might be useful to someone. The threads are 10mm The stub is ½" and has a ramp machined in it. The main diameter that passes through the green bracket is ⅞" diameter and the shoulder part is 15/16". The T piece is 16mm...

I can't afford the Knew coping saw but wanted greater tension in my Eclipse's blade. I bought a bottle screw for about a pound and modified the ends to fit around the frame. Rotating the centre portion spreads the ends apart exerting increased tension on the blade. The throat capacity is...

The "combustion" part (outside) of these heaters is separate and sealed from the "warm air" part (inside) so there are never any nasty niffs. There is a glow plug that is used to initiate combustion when it starts up, but since the amount of fuel the heater uses is miniscule (30 seconds equates...

I've just installed a diesel fuelled heater in my workshop and it's absolutely marvellous. The combustion is totally sealed from the working space so there's no smell, no fumes and no moisture. It's a variable output between about 1.5kW to 5kW has a thermostat and manual controls. They were...

Custard is spot on. Focussing on a single or small number of tasks and getting both highly competent and efficient is no mean feat and is very important in a commercial sense. Tips and tricks to simplify or tune a process is part of it and rarely acknowledged by the casual observer. Bricklaying...

The Aldi Ferrex is a great bit of kit. Stainless steel bin and extending wand, tool storage, power take off with autostart, wheels and loafs of power. About £50

A sharp, well-set saw makes sawing much easier and is not expensive or difficult to achieve. As mentioned previously, Paul Sellers has long advocated learning the pretty minimal skills need to sharpen saws and the satisfaction that comes with it. Give it a try and see...

The finished product works a treat:

I tested it at the upper edge of the frame (at the beginning of the bend) and it works just as well. Normally I only tighten the turnbuckle by hand, but in the test I popped a screwdriver through it to add leverage and I overdid it a bit and the pin in the (Eclipse) coping blade fractured! I...

I'll try tomorrow. I use it mostly for cutting the bulk of the waste between dovetails so don't need much depth. I will report back after further testing!

Andy that's perfect. You are right in that I incorrectly stated that Part F was on the sliding part. I'l knock one up. I may actually have to make a beading stop too since the one I have is not perpendicular to its stem. Cheers and thanks to all Mark

That's really kind Jim, but I think those dimensions relate to G: the beading gauge. I am after the dimensions of F: the depth gauge. Kind, hopeful regards Mark