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Not glue, just general mankiness from 30yrs of (ab)use

The plate isn't actually bent, it's just cheapo. I'll remove the whole vice when my hand is better (again, don't ask) and attempt a permanent fix. At the moment, I've used a slightly thicker washer and rotated the (worn) pin so it's working OKish. Big sigh...

Here are pics of the plate showing the recesses are only about 1.5mm deep. This means the tolerance between the washer and the steel crosspin on the end of the threaded bar is critical to prevent the plate becoming misaligned as tension is released when the quick release lever is actuated. My...

I'll take a pic when the bandage is off my hand (don't ask), but I've had it apart a few times and the recesses are stamped in and very small, hence the problem.

The plate at the ends of the bars has two shallow recesses formed in it, and a hole. The two recesses locate over the guide bars, and the hole receives the threaded rod. When the quick release lever is activated, pressure is taken off the plate which (on mine) then slips down slightly as it is...

I have a modern version as pictured below bought in the late 80s It has the stamped metal plate on the end of the bars (1 inch diameter) which locates very poorly causing the half nut to become misaligned. Does anyone have a spare cast metal version of the end plate as circled below? Thanks...

I found this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//292769654938? but a) it only supplies 10A, and b) I already bought a 20A supply so the glow plug has a bit of headroom.

Hmm. Not sure that Amazon linked item will charge the battery? It looks like it will switch the contacts from the transformer input to the battery input, but it doesn't appear to have charging circuitry?

And maybe one of these https://www.batterymasters.co.uk/sealed-lead-acid-batteries/general-application/alarm-batteries/yuasa-np1-2-12-12v-1-2ah-20hr-as-1-3ah-sealed-lead-acid-rechargeable-battery.html to complement it?

Looks like just the ticket. Thanks

I don't have a backup battery, but probably should since we do get power cuts out in the sticks. I'm always in the workshop when it's running so could yank off the casing and attempt a rescue of the control board, but a battery would be a wiser choice. A motorbike one would probably be...

The dosing pump needs lubrication to protect its internals. Heating oil (28sec kerosene) is cheaper and burns cleaner but doesn't have the lubricity of diesel. I'm really pleased with the heater's performance and quality and the installation can be pretty tidy.

I've recently installed one in my workshop. I'm really pleased with it and the running costs. I use a mix of 80% heating oil and 20% red diesel.

Yes, I like a detail on the edge of the board. Even a simple v chamfer looks neat and minimal

Thanks for all the input. I'll cogitate until I get to a point that affects the rest of the build, but I'm veering towards tight fitting (top and bottom) T&G. Mark

I'd like to do the best I can

I guess it depends on the depth of the cabinet. e.g. If it were only 100mm deep (front to back), there would be no appreciable racking at the front if the back were constrained.

Hmmm. Possibly. But it makes me think about the inherent rigidity of vertical boards around 4" wide. If fitted tightly top and bottom and pinned in place with a single screw/nail there's plenty of triangulation to prevent racking Any thoughts from someone who's tried it?

I agree that a veneered board wouldn't be in keeping. I think a frame with T&G/half lap panels would look better. If I made it a two panel affair, the centre stile could be quite broad to provide anti racking integrity?

Thanks Jacob, There are actually 2 legs in the middle to avoid sagging but the angle of the pic doesn't show it. I'm undecided on leg placement at the moment. Cheers Mark