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I use spanners such as these if ever I need a spanner dedicated to a toolkit or task, such as for my router collets: https://www.primetools.co.uk/product/gedore-894-single-open-ended-spanner-22mm/ However, a cranked version is several times the price...

‘Cranked’ is the key word, referring to those two bends which off-set the head of the spanner from the handle. A podger is is an (often) tapered bar, used to move and align things; the other end of the handle of that spanner will be like that.

Thanks Doug, that was my hunch, and it will be the simplest option to experiment with!

Yes, that is now my crown guard has always been configured, attached to the riving knife, and with an extraction port (as yet unused) toward the rear.

This has prompted me to think about the best form of above table extraction. Whilst I have experience of big saws, with very powerful extraction, leaving almost no *visible* dust, I’m considering how this applies to my home workshop, where my extraction unit, considering length of flexi hose...

Use acro props with stronboys to support the wall above the lintel. Remove and replace lintel. Remove acros.

Ten or more years ago, I used an Axminster fence, similar (if not identical to) this: https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-rip-fence-upgrade-100205 It was very good, as I recall. Easy to install, simple to accurately adjust, solid. It’s pretty straightforward to make something that works...

My father was instructed to use a chain mail apron, when operating a spindle moulder… overkill, perhaps. But I did recently see a video of a cabinet saw kickback incident which fired an off cut straight at the operator’s crotch! I favour a leather apron.

I’ve had 4 old British saws, of which only one needed “refurbished”. The bulk of the work was in cleaning up the cast iron table, and cosmetic work. Beyond that, there was no more work than in commissioning a brand new saw. All these saws have two slots as per you “American style”. Not that I...

Deema actually suggested a professionally refurbished saw, which are widely available. He did also link to a 240v Sedgwick ta315, which is not an old saw at all; the chances of there being anything seriously wrong with it are slim! These can be had for £1500. Personally, I’ve bought old saws...

Do I see a groove for a second belt there?

The ph of the cement will passivate are the steel, and so rust will be inhibited. However, I’ve always used slate for this application.

+1 When my [Grand] Seiko watch developed a fault, it went back to the individual who had made it, in Japan, for it to be put right, and returned with humble apologies. Should it ever need to go back, it will be that same individual, or, when they’re gone, their apprentice, who attends to it...

SOLD

Just clean and lubricate sufficiently to make everything move as it should, and use it!

Do you mean would a track saw other than a Festool, work with Festool’s MFT system? I would guess that any saw that works on the same type of rail would do it. Perhaps there are aftermarket adapters to allow other rails to be used with festool accessories? But of course, you can make your own...

I’ll be driving from Cheshire to Aberdeen on Thursday, and to Leeds on Friday, so could deliver en route F.O.C.

I may also have a fence… I’ll see what I can find.

Yeah, genuine every time. And like others, I stick to corded for all but a drill and an impact driver. Though at some point, I will replace petrol a petrol hedge cutter and brush cutter with battery alternatives. I’ll stick with the same brand, Makita and probably buy bare units.

In taking another’s workflow as an example to follow, it’s important to look at the whole picture; I suspect that Peter has full sheets broken down for him, by his local supplier. You can, of course do that with either a track saw or an appropriate cabinet saw. But it’s a step to be considered.