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So, after a bit of reading last eve I see this rabbit hole goes somewhat deep. Having previously looked only at who makes a well regarded 24t and 40-48t blade producing a cut with a good finish, I'd never looked at the mechanics of rake angle, tooth shape/pattern, etc. The "cheapest well...

The Freuds I have say they are for either corded or cordless and have a positive rake of 15 degr. I do see that Freud make a 160mm 2.5mm kerf intended specifically for track saws. The crosscut are offered with three diff rake angles, only one of which is negative. However, they are much dearer...

I'll do some measurements and further testing on some comparable offcuts at the next weekend. Thanks for all the things to consider and look for.

Em, I can understand that. Unintentional misdirection. Only one cut of the day was a rip -- with a crosscut blade -- and veered off line, without bogging down! Go figure.

Been wondering about whether Freud blades are overrated. Other good blades besides Festool which are insanely dear? Ollie , are you saying you've found Trend pretty decent?

These were all across the grain of a 40mm thick board, so not going very fast, and using a 40 tooth blade.

A few cuts with thickness less than the full kerf of the blade. Did not work on a Freud but seemed to work without problems on a cheap Parkside blade. But even a crosscut through the centre of the board struggled and veered off line... though I can't be sure that the track didn't slide when the...

I've been using a track saw the last couple years for DIY work and recently changed to Freud blades (165mm, 1.7mm kerf) because they are so widely recommended. Yet, when I take an edge off of thick oak, the blade starts to struggle halfway along and drifts outward even though my saw track is...

I've also thought to have the apron on the long sides be flush with the worktop but just stop 75-100mm short of the ends and then the end aprons completing the box be inset so my worktop clamping is primarily on the ends and my moxon alternative be mounted straight to the centre of one long...

I just needed something that was dead quick and easy to easily disassemble but would keep the worktop stable whilst in place. It might minimally influence vibration, but I've not noticed. BTW: I've a steel washer on top of each bung to keep the screw secure without tearing at the bung. Had to...

True, but I don't want nor have room for a heavy conventional workbench. I need one that I can lay flat against the garage wall when the space is needed, light enough to move for that purpose, yet sturdy enough for work. So my current 18mm top sits on sturdy wooden saw horses, held in place by...

I'm not in a hurry but am currently leaning toward an MR MDF sheet about 1400x750 so it will fit a workpiece as large as 1220x610mm with worktop to spare around all the edges. Underneath would be a 12-18mm frame attached probably 100mm tall forming an open box (no bottom sheet). The frame...

time to unsubscribe from this thread.

I've been thinking of mounting a skirt panel on the worktop with T-rails and using a set of those instead of a moxon style clamp.

Odd, I have Makita clamps and 20mm holes on an 18mm top. They fit on my worktop but only when the screw and slide are both loosened all the way.

In the classic MFT, 20mm holes are in a 96mm grid pattern across the whole surface and often rail clamps are used with the rail put through the hole. so, the slab needs to be no more than 19mm thick and there should not be a lot of slat braces across the the bottom as those would annoyingly get...

I've been using a slab of 18mm hardwood plywood as a worktop with a friction fit down onto a pair sawhorses. There are a few 20mm holes for track saw use and when I clamp a piece down to it, I use F-clamps on the edge more often than not. But of course this single slab is no longer absolutley...

I'd get Trend to replace the faulty bit or go with the RS template and a 1/2 bit. I bought a Wealden bit and had to return it as is was 20.5mm rather than 19.95-20.05. They said most classic plunge bits err on the plus side assuming it is cutting a mortise. Whether they're right or not, I...