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As you can see in this image I'm gluing two boards together with two sash clamps. I'm also holding the ends of each board where they meet level with two G-clamps. To avoid them making a dent into the soft wood and also not stick to the glue I added some grease proof paper and thin pieces of MDF...

"The legs must attach with a nice stiff wobble-less joint so that when the laser head is zipping around the bench is not vibrate or wobble"

I just had a look and they are lovely workbenches but way too much for what I need in scale of project and likely price for timber.

I looked into a setup like that and assumed it would certainly be strong, but possibly still wobble with tressles/saw horses that are not as expensive as the speedhorse XT. As unfortunatly I can't afford £280 on just two of those. I suppose the option is to make my own too out of thick wood to...

I need to make a 900x900x900 workbench for my laser cutting machine. However the room it will be situated in does not have doors wide enough for this to be moved in and out and it has to be able to do that. So the legs need to either fold up, be detachable or some other mechanism to make one...

I see this quick and easy setup for legs on workbenches a lot with the two overlapping 2x4 and I'm wondering if it has a name and what the best placement of screws (assuming all of the wood is 2x4)?

Should they be perpendicular to the L part (A), perpendicular to the angled part (B), or somewhere between?

Thanks for that. I might do what you said with a nut, bolt and washer and maybe recess it into the wood. Obviously I'd use something with a low profile so the wood does not need to be too thick.

I have the Titan 210mm Sliding Mitre Saw (TTB794MSW) and I'd like to add a sacrificial wood fence to the existing metal fence so that I can have zero clearance and cleaner cuts at the back. However, for some weird reason the fence does not have any holes in it to be able to slow screws through...