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https://store.lathes.co.uk/bridgeport

There was an article in "The Woodworker" back in the day, I think it was the one that had the free veneer pieces on the cover, which I still have somewhere I think! Anyway the article was about some expert guys who used scroll saws to cut veneer for complicated marquetry which they sold as a...

No need to re tap I reckon? Nipples are available with just about any thread like here. https://www.hle.co.uk/shop/grease-nipples-connectors-accessories/steel-hydraulic-grease-nipples/steel-hydraulic-straight/straight-hydraulic-grease-nipples/ Whether they do small quantities or not I don't...

Now this I'm really not certain about. I do know grease nipples come in many thread sizes, but I've only seen two types of head. The normal type, like on your motor, and the "button head" type that uses a grease fitting that pushes on from the side. As I've said, lubricate motor bearings...

If it's an old motor, it might not hurt to pull it apart and put new grease in the bearings. There is IIRC a special grease made for motor bearings, but again IIRC, we just used to use a high melting point grease when I worked in industry. Be very sparing with the grease gun though.

It'd be nice to have it right, but I don't think it'd be on my urgent priority list. For 0.3mm I'd use a file personally. As already said, a "safe edge" one. Shouldn't take that much doing really.

It's the same with the metalwork lathes. They're OK basically for what they are, but the finish and QC is pretty hit or miss, and mostly miss. I've got a Chinese "8 X 16" which are all pretty well the same whoever puts their badge on them. They OK, but mine is quite heavily modded now, and has...

The tailstock on my metal working lathe (A Chinese one) is like I described. It uses a dog point end grub screw and locknut as a key. It's just about OK after a remade grub screw, and careful and judicious filing. The lock works on the side as I already said. It's removed most of the slop, and...

Looks like the keyway has had some hard use, which makes me wonder if the end of the bolt that acts as a key hasn't snapped off as already said. Is there another threaded hole underneath the tailstock that the key pin is meant to go in? I'd have sort of expected the lock to be separate.

It's Jumping Jack Flash's medallion!

The other's comments are pretty well what I think. If it's a cheap tool with no hope of spares, go ahead and do what you can. Expensive piece of kit, and the proper brushes are available. Go for them every time.

As far as I understand it, brushes some not only in a lot of sizes, but also in a variety of compounds, which makes them harder or softer. You need the right ones for the job. One's the right size will fit, but may not last long, or may damage the comm. So get the originals as replacements if...

Even the experts are saying that the COP process is no longer fit for purpose. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cx2lknel1xpo.amp

You think what you like. I'm not going to argue with people who always think they're right. If you want factual proof, feel free to use your time finding it. Proof either way is easy to find out there, depending on your preferences and prejudices.

This is just a thought ,but have you tried Bruce Crompton who features in "Combat Dealers" He seems to have a wide range of contacts.

Being as you think you're always correct, trait I've only seen with those who support the left, I'll leave you to it. Goodbye.

And please don't you equate your "facts" with anything other than what you want to believe. And that's "Labour good. Everything else bad." You're welcome to that idea. It's not true, whatever "proof" might be offered.

What you mean is that we don't agree, and we will never agree. Never mind "tropes" you don't like the truth. And that is that basically, that there's nothing to choose between any of what we end up stuck with.

Do you know, I just wrote a reply to Robin BHM. I can't be bothered with the pantomime, "Oh no they're not" Have a nice day.

I make the same mistake often.