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Can you maybe make the lining process a bit easier by cutting the insert pieces out in several sections, velveting (is that a word?) them, but leaving some free space on the underside, then lining the bottom of the box, cutting away a few small areas that you can then glue the inserts to? I am...

No need for that. Use them to mark the lines, then saw. They are really only for marking out the guide line. If you don't follow it exactly, that's OK. Just as long as you are cutting square on the top, it will all work out. There are multiple different videos and methods out there, but they ALL...

I made mine from a bit of angle aluminium. Work perfectly well, and you can make other ratios as needed, as well as making the guides for mitered dovetails, saddle squares etc. All you need is a protractor, a hack saw and something to smooth the edges with. You can also make them at different...

I find the Popular Woodworking site quite good. If you accept their mail shots then you occasionally get free plan offers. (I got 5 over the course of Covid). They also offer a digital only membership that I will try over the Christmas break (gives me enough time to scour the site for all the...

A Samsung 20R cell and a Samsung 25R cell are both the same size (18mm diameter, 65mm long). One is a 2Ah cell, the other is a 2.5Ah cell. They are both approx 4V fully charged. Connect 5 20R in series and you have an 18V 2Ah battery pack. Connect 2 of those in parallel and you have a 4Ah 18V...

That last paragraph is the reason that most every tool manufacturer will have a warning in their manual to only use their approved accessories.

Phil, yes, you are correct, the cells inside any battery are standard catalogue items. There are many suppliers of 18650 cells out there for example, and they are not all created equal. The manufacturing process of balancing the cells, connecting them, mounting the electronic module, the design...

Phil is right about the components, there's just too much price pressure for any manufacturing company to not use Chinese / Indian components. But I can say with high confidence that DeWalt motors and modules are unique to DeWalt. The same motor may be used in multiple DW tools, and variants...

Isn't that just always the way of things? Plus one for the thin boards glued on by the way.

I built a version of the fine woodworking New Fangled Workbench (which sat atop my old workmate), which had inserts for powertools. That worked quite well until I over egged the mallet work on a weaker part of the top and had to build another bench in fairly short order.

I am a big fan of split top benches, they make workholding much easier. But if I built that bench, I wouldn't have enough space left to walk around it :)

If you search for the 2017 version, that's available as a downloadable installer for the standalone version.

The only finish on my bench is the occasional drip from over enthusiastic application of shellac or blo. No finish for the workbench itself.

What hinges did you use? I struggle to find good hardware here in Cz.

I am not a fan of in-ear buds. Seen my kids replace too many because one fell out or got lost. I personally always use 'Skull Candy Ink'd' ones. They are a nice fit to my ears, and they hang around my neck when not in use, so they never get lost. Any of that type of design would be my choice...

Personally, in my workshop I barely have space for 5m lengths of anything (except string or tape), never mind the space to pass 5m lengths across a router table. At that length, you would also want infeed and outfeed support. Personally, when I am grooving something long like that, I would use...

Maybe I missed it, but if the pieces are 47 × 75 profile, how long are they? You say you want to cut the dado lengthwise, so this is more of a groove than a dado no? If they are less than a couple of feet, probably an improvised router table would do fine, clamped to the end of the work bench...

If the gouge cut is there to provide a place for your thumb in case you are pulling the plane rather than pulling, why not shape it with a rasp and then finish with a gouge that matches the profile that feels good for your hand. Just a thought.

There was an article in Popular Woodworking about striking knives back in September, called 'The Striking Knife'. I saw one of these tools on a second hand site, but it had gone before I had the dosh to buy it, so I talked to a tame blacksmith friend of mine, and he made one based on the plans...

The use of 12 actually comes from a base 60 system, first records of which seem to be over 5000 years old. Useful because it has lots of whole factors. It's also quite easy to use your hands to count too. Wikipedia has an article on it, search for sexagesimal.