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Well for on site work I have to agree with @Corset that a #5 is preferable to a #5-1/2, if only because it is less weight to lug around. At the bench, though, I prefer a #5-1/2 on joinery work because of the extra mass. I am less keen on the #6 because I feel that the extra weight and size make...

My curiosity is piqued! Any chance of a photograph of the wee beastie?

I'm surprised that nobody mentioned the Trend Snappy drill/countersink (which have a counterbore size of 3/8in or 1/2in depending on the size of screw used) and their matching plug cutters and tube plug cutters. Reasonably accurate and resharpenable in my experience TBH on some jobs it is...

I think you could make it safer - by having a short rip fence. The long through fence you have means that if you saw reaction timber it could get pinched between the blade and the fence and whilst your guides may minimise the tendency to kick back I very much doubt it will do the saw much good...

It's may be worth potential users knowing about running costs even with these guns. The Senco and Milwaukee guns use a factory pressurised nitrogen cylinder which has a certain life before it needs to be replaced (because it loses all pressure). My understanding is that this isn't cheap. Don't k...

Shortest nail a 1st fix nailer can fire is 50mm. The clipped heads on first fix nailers are downright ugly, especially as 1st fix nailers tend to punch the heads under - so not a fine finish, although perfectly acceptable for sub-flooring where something like engineered wood, laminate etc will...

The brand seems to have a good reputation in the USA - never seen them in the UK, though.

Another vote for resin anchors. I have used hundreds of them in recent years to hold steel angle plates (up to 225 x 225 x 10mm), large timber ledgers, commercial premises handrails, etc into at times very ropey masonry. Concrete screws are another option that can work well

But how would you get an a accurate fix into, say masonry? Because of the constraints of the window reveals the only way to install it would be so that it pushed in from the room towards the window and onto the screws, but I feel that accurately locating 4 or (for wider boards) 6 or even 8...

If you install fine grained hardwoods, e.g. mahogany, maple, etc) then scratch the DW (DCN660) as it struggles to sink pins in that although on softwood, OSB MDF, etc it is fine. I changed to Hikoki (1st and 2nd fix) from DW 18 months ago for just that reason (Milwaukee's 2nd generation guns...

My Kapex is by far the easiest to use and most accurate mitre saw I have ever used, so I tend to use it for high end fur outs kitchens, etc. The mitre saw I use for a lot of structural and 1st fix work is actually an old Makita LS1016 (260mm double bevel SCMS) which frankly has seen better days...

AFAIK the 360 uses a particular type of nail (offset full head) and a unique gas cannister which are only available from Passlode - and Passlode are very expensive for consumables, which is by far the biggest cost of running a nailer, in comparison to the likes of Rawl, Fischer, etc. It's true...

I think that the environment they would be going into is one where temperatures and RH can fluctuate wildly, so I'd be looking to install with screws and cups to control the tendency to cup, because even MR-MDF can cup. I'd also seal the bejasus out of them.

Only problems are limited crosscut capacity, lack of portability - oh, and the price! Despite that I'd still like one when I set a home workshop up

It's an Eberle Blitz model maker's saw from Augsburg, Germany. The replaceable blades were available in wood and metal cutting variants about 20 years ago. Not sure if you can still get them. The firm still exists and specialises in band saw and fret saw blades

Firstly, the rail square itself has a relatively short length which means that the edge it registers from needs to be straight and free of bumps. This might require a "dust cut" to be done down one long edge with a long rail to get a known reference edge. For certain tasks this isn't always...

Aren't we?

The DF500 isn't bad to use with a Domiplate. It takes a bit of getting used to, but the speed gains when doing boxes and carcasses make it very worthwhile for the tradesman.

Pugwash? Hidden meanings? Only if you believe the urban myth about what the Black Pig's mate's name was

Yes. But Seneca also make a number of other accessories for the Domino, to my mind most notably the Domiplate which speeds up use of the DF500 considerably (see some of Peter Millard's videos on YouTube). In addition they make some other interesting add ons for Festool kit