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An interesting read from a US forum: http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/shop/articles_221.shtml

Your glue froze?

They could be made of mdf, ply... Metal is better though, as these rings can take a bit of a beating. Make a couple of drawings and send them to a machinist shop and ask for a quote. Who knows, it might not cost that much.

PVC works well, but at those prices, you might as well do it properly. Most important thing is to keep your shop clean. Spark or no spark, you can't have a fire if there's nothing to ignite.

Inspired by the Cabinetizer, but a simpler design. Works well, can lift several cabinets at a time if need be.

The sliding dovetail in your picture looks like it is made with a router. The housing beneath it also. Just like the box/ finger joint, some things are easier if done by machine. But, if you have your heart set on doing it by hand, as said above, a tapered dovetail would probably be easier...

100mm is fine. Don't overthink it, just get on with the build. You'll be making a new bench a few years down the road anyway. Good luck.

A while ago, I posted pictures of a chest of drawers I made. Hide glue, rubbed joints...There was a visible glue line or 2 on the inside of the corpus. End of the world as we know it. :)

For wide and deep mortises, here on the Continent, most people use chain mortisers (kettenfrase). (Not the handheld units, but rather the heavy stationary ones)

I used to make bridle joints on a bandsaw with a sheet metal insert attached to the fence that was the thickness of the kerf. I'd cut the cheeks of the mortise without the insert and then do the tenons with the attached insert. Or was it the other way 'round? :) There was also a depth stop...

Yeah, it's a mess. You could put the smaller drawers down on the plinth. This way you would have direct support for the mid-vertical member. Maybe an angle iron or some such to straighten the top.

European Walnut, when seasoned, is often the colour of Dijon mustard. Only the outer inch or so should be avoided. The rest is fine. Often times, the inner dark part, although aesthetically interesting, isn't of much use because of cracks and cavities associated with the pith.

Over time, you never know how the glue will fare. I'm not sure you can rely on the joint alone in this case, as you could on a traditional pinned M/T.

A regular sliding dovetail might even prove to be stronger, as there's not much "meat on the bone" left between the two adjoining mortices of the elongated version. The morices being open-ended, aren't going to help much (strength-wise) either.

I think that a table leg might exert too much leverage for such a joint. Perhaps if combined with some kind of rail-leg-rail hardware.

Yes that is how I do it. Particularly when there are mitered corners, like on this sacristy credenza top I made some time ago.

I had offered to use Oak, but this was what the client could afford. Regarding the use of Oak for drawer linings. Historically, it was done on upper-end pieces, although, a quick search of online galleries, will show that there's a few deal-lined pieces still around. It is interesting...

A commercial job. Rare as hen's teeth. There's a lot of Biedermeier, Alt Deutch, Viennese Secession, but few pieces like this. Often times, as you say, can be bought for less than the cost of the materials.

The photos could’ve been better and I certainly missed photographing a step or two, but on the whole, I think it’ll be a good enough deterrent to anyone considering making something similar. :)